Prince Rupert, CA to Ketchikan, AK

June 19, Wednesday

Kelly Calvert, one of the administrators for the “Boating the Inside Passage to Alaska” on Facebook wrote an article about “Gates of the Inside Passage” that was of interest to us.

Gates Of The Inside Passage by Kelly Calvert:

The “Gates Of The Inside Passage” refers to a sequence of navigational challenges along the Inside Passage that can be impassible depending on the conditions. These “gates” consist of either Tidal rapids, or significant bodies of water with ocean swells, high winds, or high currents (or even worse high winds or swell, opposing high currents).

The easiest of the two to plan for are the rapids. BC is home to the fastest tidal rapids in the world (up to around 20kts in some cases). Perhaps even more dangerous than the speed is the turbulence. For example Seymour Narrows, near CampbelI River, forms a 100’ whirlpool on max flood at spring tides that has capsized many boats over the years.

Fortunately, it is very easy to transit the rapids safely by following a very simple rule. Only transit at or near slack water. By “near” I mean plus/minus 15 min on spring tides, and plus/minus 30 min on neap tides. This requires careful planning to arrive on time. It is essential to have tide and current tables on board in one form or another (eg paper, or electronic, but you still can’t count on cell coverage for the vast majority of the trip).

Since it can be hard to predict how the current will affect your speed as you approach one of the rapids, I always plan to arrive an hour early, and if I’m ahead of schedule it’s a lot easier to slow down than try to make up time. If you follow this approach you will not have any problems with the rapids.

The gates which are bodies of water affected by some combination of swell, wind, and current are harder to predict and plan for. They’re all unique, and require local knowledge, and well beyond the scope of a single FB post.

For example, Johnstone Strait has practically daily afternoon gales in the summer as the prevailing NW , afternoon winds funnel down the strait. When these winds are opposing a significant ebb current it can create surprisingly large waves.

Northbound from Seattle I consider the gates to be (depending on your route):

  • Deception Pass
  • Strait of Juan de Fuca
  • Swinomish Channel
  • Dodd Narrows
  • Strait of Georgia
  • Seymour Narrows or The backwater rapids (Guillard, yaculta, Dent, Greenpoint, whirlpool, etc)
  • Johnstone Strait
  • Queen Charlotte Strait
  • Cape Caution
  • Princess Royal Channel
  • Grenville Channel
  • Dixon Entrance
  • Peril Strait Rapids (near Sitka)

–Strait of Juan de Fuca, Strait of Georgia, Queen Charlotte Strait, Cape Caution, and Dixon Entrance fall into “significant bodies of water with ocean swells, high winds, or high currents (or even worse high winds or swell, opposing high currents).” Today we crossed Dixon Entrance, a gate of this type that we had not crossed at some point in our boat in U.S and Canada. For the most part it was a beautiful day, sometimes cloudy and grey and at others sunny and bright. The wind was mostly between 6-9 mph although near Ketchikan it got up to about 15mph. The ocean swells were 1.5 to 2 feet with a few of them up to 4 or 5 feet, creating an uncomfortable ride when they were on the side of the boat. The trip took 12 hours which is a bit of a long day for us. We are now moored at Bar Harbor Basin, North in Ketchikan. 

Prince Rupert

June 17-18, Monday-Tuesday

We have done our due diligence: Checked Tides and Currents, Weather System Predictions, Weather and Sea Forecasts, Observations and Present Conditions. If the conditions are still favorable in the morning we will cast off for Alaska at 5:oo am, cross the Dixon Entrance and be in U.S waters by noon. In the meantime enjoy some pictures from Prince Rupert.

Eagle Entertainment

Sunken Gardens: History of the Sunken Gardens

Interesting story: The Epic Journey of the Kazu Maru

Around Town

Around Cow Bay Marina

Klewnuggit to Prince Rupert

June 16, Sunday

Continued our journey up Grenville Channel to Prince Rupert. We will be staying in Cow Bay Marina for a few days as we enjoy the city and make plans for crossing Dixon Entrance to enter Alaska.

Cow Bay Marina Sunset

Coghlan Anchorage to Klewnuggit Inlet

June 15, Saturday

Coghlan Anchorage is part of Wright Sound which is where Grenville Channel begins. The channel is about 45 nautical miles long and 0.2 nautical miles wide at its narrowest point, ending at Prince Rupert. Since it is a part of the Inside Passage shipping route you are likely to see all types of vessels.

Anchored in Klewnuggit Inlet at the East Inner Basin. Sharing the Space with Spirit Bear.

Shearwater to Bottleneck Inlet

June 14, Friday

Our plan for today was to head west to Milbanke Sound and take Finlayson Channel which is part of the main route for B.C. Ferries. Weather predictions last night seemed favorable but today that changed, by the time we arrived at the sound the swells were on the rise. We took Reid Passage to Perceval Narrows, which we were lucky to catch at near low tide and proceeded though. We entered Mathieson Sound and took Oscar Passage to Finlayson Channel.

What a gorgeous day, we saw our first waterfalls of the trip. Two Pacific white-sided dolphins played along our bow for about 5 minutes. These dolphins are noted for being playful, highly social marine mammals, are avid bow-riders, and acrobatic jumpers. They are fascinating creatures, Rick just told me that they they use a sleep technique called unihemispheric sleep, which allows them to sleep while still breathing and being aware of their surroundings. That is a skill I would love to have on this trip.

Anchored in beautiful, secured, peaceful Bottleneck Inlet at Roderick Island, sharing the inlet with two other boats.

Shearwater and New Bella Bella

June 10-13

Owned by the Heiltsuk Nation, Shearwater Resort is an Indigenous wilderness resort in the heart of the Great Bear Rainforest.

Shearwater Park

This beautiful park is dedicated to Shearwater and New Bella Bella residents’ that serve in WW I, WW II, and the Korean wars.

New Bella Bella

While Rick was working on the boat, I took the Sea-Bus taxi to check-out New Bella Bella. The Heiltsuk Cultural Centre, which showcases their art and historical artifacts, was closed. I did shop at the Band Store (grocery store) and they told me the next closest grocery store was in Prince Rupert and that the fastest way to get from Bella Bella to Prince Rupert is by ferry, which takes eleven hours and twenty-three minutes. Students from Shearwaters take the Sea-Bus to the school in New Bella Bella.

Big Frypan Bay to Shearwater

Monday-June 10

After three beautiful days of solitude in Big Frypan Bay we left for Shearwater Resort and Marina, Denny Island.

Blue Herons on the Breakwater at Shearwater Marina

Water Reflections

We are in Big Frypan Bay where we did a little water reflection photography. At high tide the water rises and trees appear to float, a dreamy illusion. As the tide recedes the rock-shores reveal their rugged beauty, each crevice, texture, and signature comes alive and appears as if they were petroglyphs.

Port McNeill to Big Frypan Bay

Today we left Port McNeill for Big Frypan Bay at Penrose Island and we were not alone. There were five boats on our pier and four of us left before 5:00 in the morning. The sailing vessel Rita, not planning on going around Cape Caution, stayed snug as a bug. We had a good crossing, wave 1-4 feet with a couple of 5-6 foot waves, light wind, some boost from the current, and intermittent fog.

We passed a fishing boat leaving Big Frypan Bay as we entered. We left the current, winds, waves, and fog behind us to be alone in a calm bay with big beautiful blue skies.