Sept. 14 – Thur: Today we entered Wisconsin and are in the Central Time Zone for the first time since March, one step closer to our final destination. We are staying at Sister Bay Marina on the Door Peninsula of Wisconsin. The peninsula was named for the route between Green Bay and Lake Michigan, named by Native Americans and translated into French as Porte des Morts: in English, “Death’s Door” because of the treacherous water passage the lies between the Door Peninsula and Washington Island. According to the locals, this small strait is now littered with shipwrecks with the most famous shipwreck at Sister Bay being the Meridian, a schooner that sank in 1873, it is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Sept. 15 – Fri: Leaving Sister Bay we headed south to the Sturgeon Bay Ship Canal which was dug in 1872. The 1.3-mile long canal provided a safer and shorter passage for ships going to Green Bay than the route of Porte des Morts. The seas were only 1-2 feet but with the wind blowing from the south and short periods between the waves made for a bit of a bumpy ride.
Entering the Sturgeon Bay Ship Canal we encountered a navigation marker that we had not seen before called a leading light. When you are in the channel you can see its flashing yellow light if you get out of the channel you can’t see the light, this helps guide traffic through the middle of the channel.
Tonight we are staying at the Quarterdeck Marina, Sturgeon Bay which is a lovely marina that we can hang out in for a few days if need be. We would like to continue our southward journey tomorrow but the weekend forecast does not look promising.
Note: Rick just checked the weather, we are not leaving Saturday or Sunday. Hopefully, we can go on Monday but even that looks problematic.
Sister Bay Music Stage
Goats graze the sod roof atop Al Johnson’s Swedish Restaurant.
We were delighted with a break in the weather which allowed us to leave Manistique today. Our trip from Manistique to Fayette Historic State Park Marina at Snail Shell Harbor was remarkable, calm blue seas, blue skies, green trees, and white limestone cliffs. This area was described to us as the most beautiful port on Lake Michigan and it is indeed gorgeous.
It is not only gorgeous, it is steeped in history. After the Civil War, the United States was in need of great quantities of iron in order to build its rail system. Processing iron and transporting it to foundries in the lower Great Lakes required hardwood to fuel the furnaces, limestone to purify the iron ore, and a harbor in which to ship from. Fayette Brown, an agent for the Jackson Iron Company, identified Snail Shell Harbor as a perfect spot for the Jackson Iron Company to establish a factory for the production of pig iron. Named after Mr. Brown, Fayette soon became a bustling industrial community whose residents depended on the Jackson Iron Company for housing, medical care, and supplies.
From 1867 to 1891 Fayette was one of the Upper Peninsula’s most productive iron-smelting operations with close to five hundred residents. During that time the Jackson Iron Company’s double blast furnaces produced a total of 229,288 tons of iron, 80 percent of which was used to create steel rails. The Company also build a lime kiln for the manufacturing of lime to use as mortar for masonry, chinking for log houses and plaster for interior walls and to sell to other communities in the area. The limestone was quarried from the one-hundred-fifty-foot high bluff on the eastern curve of the harbor.
With the exhaustion of the forest hardwoods and the decline of the pig iron market, the Jackson Iron Company was forced to close its Fayette plant. The company produced its last pig iron on December 1, 1891. Not such a Merry Christmas to its 500 residents, half of which were under seventeen. Residents were forced to find another way of life, some went to farming, some to the bigger city, and others went “West.” Over the years Fayette went from a company town to a ghost town with few of the old buildings surviving.
In 1959 it became a state park and today is a living museum with twenty restored buildings, outdoor informational displays, and a small museum that we plan on visiting tomorrow. We did a leisurely walk this evening taking in the sites and watching squirrels, chipmunks, and deer as they grazed on grass and consumed apples from trees that were perhaps planted over one-hundred and fifty years ago
Sept. 13-Wed: When Michigan acquired Fayette they announced, “We are not going to reconstruct Fayette to attract tourist dollars, but we are going to preserve Fayette for what it is – an outstanding historical site.” We spent the day marveling at what a great job they have done.
Not only have they preserved the history of Fayette they also have a campground, marina, lodge, and 700 acres of fields, forests and shore for hiking, water activities and picnicking.
Wow, the temperature early this morning was 35 degrees, I think it is time to go south. Although a bit chilly we had a great day exploring Manistique. Manistique is the county seat of Schoolcraft County which is named in honor of Henry Schoolcraft, who explored the area with the expedition of Lewis Cass in 1820. The county was founded in 1843 and is largely rural and forested, with much of the western portion of the county located within Hiawatha National Forest.
Out first stop, Schoolcraft County Historical Park where we found the historic Manistique Water Tower. This Romanesque style building was built in 1922 and held a 200,000-gallon water tank. Other buildings in the park were the Historic Manistique Pumping Station which now houses the Putnam House Museum, the 1894 Kepler Family Log Cabin, and a building housing the 1883 Hook & Ladder fire equipment, the equipment looked very cool through the window but the museum was closed so we could not go in. Leaving Schoolcraft County Historical Park we visited Manistique Central Park which contains a gorgeous Quarry Lake that is stocked for fishing and currently occupied by Canadian Geese. The highlight of the day was enjoying the scenery along the Manistique Boardwalk as we returned to the marina.
Now that we are back at the boat Rick has checked the forecast for the lake and it looks like we will be here for a few more days. The wind and waves are higher than we like and are coming from the direction we want to go in (South to South-southeast).
Sept 6-Wed: Today was another weather day so we decided to walk the 3.5 miles to McGulpin Point Lighthouse which is located on a bluff overlooking the Straits of Mackinac. It was well worth the walk, the grounds were beautiful, the lighthouse was free, and there was a short self-guided tour to the lake, which ended at “the big rock.” Historically “the big rock” was used to monitor the lake levels at the Straits of Mackinaw but today because of high water levels (+28 inches) it is mostly underwater and not as impressive as we expected.
We found it interesting that the 33’ McGulpin Point Lighthouse, built in 1869 and decommissioned in 1906, had only one lighthouse keeper, James Davenport and he always went above and beyond his duties. Since the lakes freeze over in the winter lighthouse keepers were not needed at the lighthouses but a least once a week James would go to the lighthouse and report on its condition to the District Inspector. These letters, now part of the National Archives in Washington, show that he most likely played a critical role in the opening of navigation every spring by reporting on ice conditions in the Straits.
On our way to the lighthouse, we saw a restored Mackinaw Boat that was just beautiful. Mackinaw Boats were used by the fur traders, fishermen, settlers, and lake travelers of the early sixteen hundreds through the early nineteen hundreds. The size and shape of the boats made them perfect for rough seas, easy handling, and landing on any beach.
This weekend will be the 11th Annual Mackinac Bridge Antique Tractor Crossing and we just happened to walk by the staging area on our way back to the marina. We couldn’t enter the staging area but did watch as truck, after truck, after truck pulled-in to drop off tractors. Last year the event drew an amazing 1,326 tractors.
Sept 7-Thurs: Today we said goodbye to Mackinaw City and hello to Naubinway, MI which is in the upper peninsula of MI. Residents here are frequently called Yoopers (derived from “U.P.-ers.”) Naubinway, founded in 1873 by William Boucha, is located on one of the few natural harbors on the northern shore of Lake Michigan and was once a lumber mecca. When the timber ran out fishing became Naubinway’s main industry. This is the most northern point that we will reach on our journey and is the only western harbor within 40 miles of Mackinaw City.
Tonight, Andiamo is the only boat moored at the Naubinway’s City Marina with the exception of a small sailboat that is well secured but has no one aboard. The marina has water, electricity, and a restroom/shower but no other amenities and is the only marina since we purchased our Wirie wifi booster in December, where we could not access the Internet. The good news is that the sky is full of stars and the weather looks good for traveling tomorrow.
Sept 8-Fri: It was a lovely day on the water, we arrived at Manistique in the early afternoon. We originally tied up in slip 5, on the north side of the marina but could not get acceptable Internet service so we moved Andiamo to the West Side of the marina within site of the Internet antenna, which did the trick.
After a walk around town, we made use of their beautiful boardwalk, which goes 1.3 miles along the city limits on the banks of the Manistique River and Lake Michigan, to go to the grocery store. It was our first supermarket in over a week and we were delighted to be able to purchase fresh veggies.
If a looper doesn’t go out because of weather they call it a weather day. We planned to leave Mackinac City today but the weather forecast kept us in the marina. Fellow Loopers on Steele Away left today but called to tell us we had made the right decision, they made it to their destination but said it was a pretty bumpy ride.
Since we didn’t go out we decided to have a work-day on the boat which kept us busy all day. When we returned to the boat from taking our showers we had a little rainbow. Within twenty minutes the weather was looking a little ominous, hopefully, we can leave tomorrow.
As you can see from the picture it is pretty isolated at the marina tonight. There are 132 slips in the marina and only 4 pleasure boats, we are the only ones on our dock.
Mighty Mac on Labor Day, it’s a tradition! The first Mackinac Bridge Walk was held during the Bridge’s Dedication Ceremony in June 1958. For the 60th time, thousands of Michiganders and visitors gathered together to walk across the Mackinac Bridge from St. Ignace to Mackinaw City. This is the only day of the year that walkers are allowed on the bridge.
Since we arrived we have been watching the preparation for the today’s event. At the Conkling Heritage Park next to our marina, they have been preparing for thousands of people on this side of Mackinac Straits to be bussed to Saint Ignace for the walk and for thousands from the Saint Ignace side to be bused back after the walk. The buses started arriving at 4:00 am this morning and by 4:30 am the first load of walkers left and they continued to leave for the next 5 ½ hours. The walk started at 7:00 am with the Governor and his entourage leading the way. The walk, which is approximately 5 miles takes most participants one to two hours to complete.
All walkers had to be finished by 11:30 am, anyone not off the bridge by then was given a ride in one of the many buses that were used for the event. Normal traffic resumed at noon and by 2:00 pm all of the buses returning walkers to the upper peninsula had left the park.
In terms of overall length, 26,372 feet, the Mackinaw Bridge is the longest suspension bridge in the United States, in terms of the suspension portion of the bridge, 8,614 feet, it is the third longest after the Golden Gate Bridge at 4,200 feet and the Verrazano at 4260 feet.
Four o’clock in the Morning
Eight O’Clock in the Morning
Buying Bus Tickets
More Loading
Still Loading
Mile Long Line
Still Waiting, they probabley won’t make the 10 O’Clock deadline.
What you notice first in Mackinaw City are all the T-shirt stands, fudge shops, hotels, and restaurants. But you soon realize that the village has done a great job showcasing the history of the area. There is a two-mile pathway that displays forty-six markers that feature historical displays outlining the history of the city and the Straits area.
Saturday was the Third Annual National Rally & Pipe Out Paddle Protest in Mackinaw City, Michigan and two of the canoes were launched at our marina. It was interesting to get their perspective on the pipeline and to have a close-up view of their canoes.
From our boat, we can see the remains of the Mackinaw City Railroad Dock and the old Coast Guard Icebreaker Mackinac WAGB-83. The railroad dock is where trains were loaded onto ferries to cross the Mackinac Straits. The A-frame device adjusted the height of the tracks to match the decks of the ships for loading and off-loading the trains. The icebreaker, once known at the Queen of the Great Lakes, is now a floating museum. It was fascinating to tour the ship, see the six massive diesel engines, and learn how the ice is broken. They do no bash through the ice, they are designed to ride up on top of the ice. As the ship moves forward, the hull rides up over the ice and the weight of the boat crushes the ice. This process repeats as the icebreaker clears a channel.
It was interesting to see three of the guns from the most famous ship in the Union Navy, the U.S.S. Hartford in Mackinaw City. You may remember me mentioning the U.S.S. Hartford in December as Rear-Admiral David G. Farragut’s ship in the Battle of Mobile Bay.
Sunrise at Straits State Harbor Marina
Sunrise at Straits State Harbor Marina
Civil War Cannon from the U.S.S. Hartford
Birchbark Canoe
Birchbark Canoe
Birchbark Canoe
Birchbark Canoe
Birchbark Canoe
Kite Flying
Kite Flying
Kite Flying
Railroad Dock Remains
Green Energy Lights Our Marina
Coast Guard Icebreaker Mackinac WAGB-83
Icebreaker Propeller
Icebreaker Engine
Ship’s Library
Marina Entry: View from deck of Icebreaker Mackinac WAGB-83
View from deck of Icebreaker Mackinac WAGB-83
View from deck of Icebreaker Mackinac WAGB-83
View from deck of Icebreaker Mackinac WAGB-83
View from deck of Icebreaker Mackinac WAGB-83
View from deck of Icebreaker Mackinac WAGB-83
Rail Ferry Loading Dock
Rooster Tail
Preparing for Bridge Walk
View from deck of Ship’s Propeller Shaft
Music in Mackinaw
This Boat Can Fight Fires and Tow Disabled Vessels
An early morning trip to the post office to mail postcards and we were ready to leave our turbulent Mackinac Island moorage for the calmer waters at Straits State Harbor Marina at Mackinaw City, MI. Wait, which is it Mackinaw or Mackinac? The Natives of this area, the area of Mackinaw City, Mackinac Island, St. Ignace and the Straits of Mackinac, called the land Michinni-makinong, when the French arrived around 1715 they called it Michilimackinac, ending in “ac” but pronounced as “aw,” the name was shortened to Mackinac in 1780. Establishing a city in 1857 the British, hearing the “aw” named the new city Mackinaw. Either way, Mackinaw or Mackinac, they are both pronounced with the “aw.”
This has been by far, our shortest day on the water, only seven miles. We are in calm water, at a less expensive, although better, marina. We will spend Labor Day weekend here and if weather permits enter Lake Michigan on Tuesday.
According to the Mackinaw City Chamber of Commerce, this area has routinely been rated the #1 tourist destination in Michigan, that comes as a surprise to us so it will be interesting to check it out, we are looking forward exploring the area.
We have been loving the clear waters of Lake Huron and have been told that it is so clear because of the Zebra Mussels that are an invasive species to the Great Lakes. We had our first viewing of the mussels at Presque Isle. While the clear water is incredible, the species is a concern for the area. The Zebra Mussels clog the underwater tunnels and pipes of city water works and power plants. They can be so bad that fire fighting tanker planes used in the Great Lakes area have to be completely drained and cleaned before being used in the Pacific Northwest. The threat of the tunnels of the Hydroelectric power dams on the Columbia River being clogged is too great.
Interesting day, the seas were around 3-feet when left the harbor but were forecast to become 1-2 feet which they did by the time we passed Rogers City. The weather was not bad, but there was enough fog that it made for an eerie day where we could not see land most of the day, it was only as we approached the island that it started to clear.
Tonight we are at Mackinac Island State Marina and are looking forward to exploring Mackinac Island tomorrow. So far we know that ferries come into the harbor every 15 minutes or so and set the boats in the marina to rocking…we have had to tie off on the piling next to us to hold Andiamo off of the dock.
The fact that we are both wearing long pants and have a jacket handy and the fact that the last four marinas we have stayed in were only about 20-25% full, I think, indicates that fall has arrived in Northern Michigan.
Local fishermen went out early this morning but returned reporting waves of three to four feet with white caps beginning to form on top. Their report, verified by the marine weather forecast, led us to sit tight and enjoy the island.
Presque which is French for a peninsula literally means “almost an island.” Only a narrow strip of land at the southern end of Presque Isle connects it to the mainland, we are close to the northern end at Presque Isle State Marina. We spent the day hiking and visiting two of Michigan’s 149 lighthouses. Michigan, with its 3,288 miles of shoreline, has more lighthouses than any other state and touring them seems to be a favorite past time in this area.
The Old Presque Isle Lighthouse, 38-feet tall, was built in 1840 to guide tall ships into Presque Isle Harbor. Although there are many man-made safe harbors on Lake Huron today, at that time, the only natural harbor between Detroit and Mackinac was Presque Isle Harbor. With the growth of the lumber industry on the peninsula it became necessary to have a lighthouse that not only provided guidance to Presque Isle Harbor but also to the lumber yards north of the harbor, hence in 1870, a 113-foot “New Presque Isle Lighthouse” was built a mile north of the “Old Presque Isle Lighthouse.”
We climbed the one-hundred-thirty wrought iron steps to the catwalk of the new lighthouse for a wonderful view of Lake Huron and Grand Lake. After descending, we visited the museum and hiked to the old light house for a quick tour. The hand-hewn stone steps ending with a ladder to the catwalk proved more challenging than the one-hundred-thirty steps at the new lighthouse. We ended our hike with a walk on the harbor seawall delighted to have spent the day here.
We climbed the one-hundred-thirty wrought iron steps to the catwalk of the new lighthouse for a wonderful view of Lake Huron and Grand Lake. After descending, we visited the museum and hiked to the old light house for a quick tour. The hand-hewn stone steps ending with a ladder to the catwalk proved more challenging than the one-hundred-thirty steps at the new lighthouse. We ended our hike with a walk on the harbor seawall delighted to have spent the day here.
New Presque Lighthouse
1905 House & Museum
3rd Order Fresnel Lens
Lake Huron
Grand Lake
New Fresnel Lens: Less beautiful but more powerful.
