Author: NJ

September 18, 2024 – Wednesday

What an extraordinary day it was! The morning began with a touch of tension as we departed from our dock at 6:30 AM. Dawn had just broken, casting a faint light over the bustling bay. We had to remain exceptionally vigilant due to the moving traffic, particularly the numerous rowers enjoying the early hours. By 7:00 AM, we found ourselves in the Strait of Juan de Fuca. The crossing was serene, with gentle one-foot waves and a favorable wind at our backs, making for an exceptionally smooth journey.

As we approached Point Wilson, we noticed the whale-watching boat, Saratoga, at a standstill. Suspecting they had spotted whales, we slowed our pace to observe. To our delight, we were fortunate enough to witness two majestic humpback whales, a magnificent way to crown our day. Throughout our voyage today, we encountered sea lions, dolphins, leaping fish, a plethora of birds, and countless jellyfish.

After over four months of exploring the breathtaking Inside Passage to Alaska, our return home was met with a warm welcome from Dick and Betty at the marina. Their presence added a heartfelt touch to our homecoming. To cap off an almost perfect day, the views from our home this evening were nothing short of spectacular. While our journey was incredible, filled with unforgettable experiences, we are also profoundly happy to be back home, surrounded by familiar comforts and the beauty of our own surroundings.

Views from our house . . .

September 12-13, 2024 – Thursday & Friday

On Thursday, we set sail from Genoa Bay towards Tod Inlet, eager to explore the hidden entrance to Butchart Gardens. You have two delightful options: anchor at Tod Inlet, leave your dinghy at the dock, and hike to the gardens, or head to Butchart Cove, just outside Tod Inlet, tie up to one of the complimentary 24-hour moorings, and dinghy over to the so-called “back door” of the gardens. The scenery is breathtaking, as are the gardens themselves, but we chose to keep moving and spent the evening in Sidney.

Friday’s forecast promised sunshine and warmth, perfect for hiking. However, within an hour, we found ourselves caught in a downpour and returned to the boat.

It has been an amazing experience, but this gig is almost over. Tomorrow, we go to Victoria for the weekend, where Rick insists on celebrating my three-quarters of a century presence on this merry-go-round we call Earth. His one request? Leave the camera on the boat and savor each moment. So, until we return to Port Townsend, this is goodbye for now.

The old dock has been removed but the piling remain, note the bird houses on top of the pilings.

Local art initiative to celebrate the area’s natural & cultural heritage.

From here you can hike to Butchart Gardens.

According to our Waggoner Guide this area, just outside the mouth of Tod Inlet, is the back door to Butchart Gardens.

Flowers along Sidney’s beautiful waterfront promenade.

A not-for-profit community aquarium and cultural learning centre dedicated to the ecosystem of the Salish Sea

Flowers along Sidney’s beautiful waterfront promenade.

According to its plaque, the diver was carved from a single, 80-foot tall standing red cedar tree by Alan C. Porter in the mid-1980s, then donated to the town by the Hotel Sidney which is now called Sidney Pier Hotel & Spa.

September 9-11, 2024

Monday 9/9 – Tuesday 9/10

Our adventure in search of a secluded cove led us to the enchanting Glenthorne Passage on the west side of Prevost Island. The surrounding land is privately owned, so we couldn’t go ashore, but we anchored near the historic Prevost Island Farm. In the 1920s, Digby de Burgh, an Irishman from County Limerick, transformed most of the island into a farm, raising sheep, goats, and cattle. Today, the island’s beauty remains in the hands of de Burgh’s descendants.

The local birdlife provided endless entertainment. A cormorant claimed a favorite buoy, a seagull begged for food from a distance but was too timid to catch it, and a Blue Heron spent its time fishing and scolding the seagulls. The passage was alive with the antics of these feathered friends.

Wednesday 9/11

We set sail for Genoa Bay, a charming and tranquil haven on the southeastern side of Vancouver Island in British Columbia, nestled in the Cowichan Valley. Known for its lush forests, serene waters, and stunning mountain views, Genoa Bay came highly recommended by fellow boaters. The highlight for many was the Genoa Bay Café, celebrated for its Pacific Rim cuisine featuring fresh local seafood.

Racing the sea plane out of the harbor. . .he won.

The harbor master at the marina said that the swans started coming to Genoa Bay in the early 1970’s and that the community looks forward to their return every year.

September 8, 2024 – Sunday

After spending Thursday and Friday nights at Telegraph Harbour, hiking during the day and enjoying live music in the evenings, we set off at sunrise on Saturday for Ganges on Salt Spring Island. We arrived just in time to spend the afternoon at the Salt Spring Saturday Market. Salt Spring Island is the largest and most populated of the Gulf Islands in British Columbia, Canada. The market is one of the most popular outdoor markets in the country. Despite the heat and crowds, we enjoyed people-watching and browsing the homespun items.

On Sunday, we explored the many art galleries and boutiques that line the streets. When we needed a break from the hustle and bustle of the town, we strolled up the hill to the Japanese Haiwa Garden, part of the Ganges Peace Park. It is a beautiful and tranquil space.

We thoroughly enjoyed our time on Salt Spring Island, but tomorrow we will be leaving the island to find a secluded cove where we can immerse ourselves in nature. We look forward to guiding our dinghy through calm waters, spotting wildlife, and enjoying the serene beauty of mother nature.

We were close enough that we enjoyed listening from our boat.

Continuously sailing, morning and night. We saw it sailing when we visited the island in 2019 and it is still going strong.

Dawn at the Cut.

Salt Spring Island’s Saturday Market

Japanese Haiwa Garden

September 5, 2024 – Thursday

Traveling north, our first marina stop was at the picturesque Oyster Bay Marina in Ladysmith, BC. We arrived on Wednesday, May 22, with 133 hours on our engine and having traveled 151.5 nautical miles since leaving Port Townsend. This charming marina became a memorable part of our journey, especially with the delightful serenades of the Purple Martins each morning and evening. Their songs created a serene and enchanting atmosphere that we fondly remember.

On our southbound journey, we returned to Oyster Bay Marina, now with 463 hours on the engine and having covered 2,181 nautical miles. We were eager to hear the Purple Martins again, but like us, they had already begun their migration south to the tropical climates of South America. Their absence was felt, but it also reminded us of the cyclical nature of life and travel.

Ladysmith itself is a quaint town with a rich history. Founded in 1904 by coal baron James Dunsmuir, it was named in honor of the end of the siege of Ladysmith, South Africa, during the Boer War. With a population of around 9,000, Ladysmith has evolved from its logging roots, although the industry remains significant with Western Forest Products Sawmills being a major employer.

Tourism is also a major industry in Ladysmith, and it’s easy to see why. We enjoyed the town parks, the flowers, and the friendly small-town atmosphere.

Anchor Winch from a 142 foot ocean going tug built in 1940 named Rivtow.

September 3, 2024

We spent a delightful Labor Day weekend at Mark Bay, a picturesque and well-sheltered anchorage in Saysutshun Provincial Park. Our days were filled with sunshine, hiking through the park, and mingling with fellow boaters. The insights we’ve gained from seasoned boaters, who have navigated these waters for years, have been invaluable. This knowledge has not only enriched this trip but will also be beneficial as we plan for Summer 2025.

Today, we journeyed from Mark Bay to Ladysmith, BC, passing through Dodd Narrows. This was the final “gate” we needed to navigate for this trip. We timed our passage with the current, entering the narrows just before slack current, ensuring a smooth crossing.

According to their website it has been Vancouver Island’s favorite rustic retreat since 1939. 

One of about thirty cargo vessels waiting to be loaded.

August 28-29, 2024 – Wednesday & Thursday

On Wednesday, we traveled from Campbell River to Comox. The weather was perfect, with clear skies and no fog, allowing us to fully enjoy the stunning coastal views. The rugged shorelines and dense forests of Douglas fir, cedar, and hemlock were beautiful. We saw lots of birds, seals, and sea lions, and the hazy mountains added a nice touch to the scenery.

Thursday’s trip from Comox to Nanaimo was even more exciting. The clear weather continued, and we had an amazing whale-watching experience. We saw at least a seven humpback whales breaching; how do they get those big bodies totally out of the water. Some of the whales were also pec slapping, and their pectoral fins were at least 12 feet long. Whale watching was definitely the highlight of our day.

Tonight, we’re enjoying the tranquility of Saysutshun Provincial Park, formerly known as Newcastle Island. This park is a peaceful retreat with its lush greenery and tranquil beaches. It’s the perfect spot to unwind and reflect on the incredible experiences of the past few months.

August 25, Sunday

With the sun shining brightly, Saturday was a perfect day for a hike. As we left the marina, we were joined by Kelly and Rob from the M/V Andromeda II, making the day even more enjoyable. Our adventure took us along the Big Cedar Trail, which rises about 200 feet through a forest of trees around 90 years old. The highlight of our walk was encountering a gigantic cedar tree, estimated to be at least 800 years old. This Big Cedar was truly massive, with its vertical bark and broad roots creating an impressive sight. We couldn’t resist posing for photos in front of the mighty trunk, where we looked and felt like tiny specks next to the towering tree.

Today started off leisurely, as we had planned to make the Seymour Narrows passage around 4:30 PM. To ensure we arrived on time, we set off at about 11:00 AM. Despite the weather forecast predicting rain, we were fortunate to only have cloudy skies throughout our journey. The absence of rain made for a pleasant trip, and we are now at Discovery Bay Marina, Campbell River, BC. The last time we were in Campbell River, we were planning our northbound trip through Seymour Narrows; tonight, we have just completed our southbound trip. In researching this stretch of water, we found a fascinating YouTube video about Ripple Rock.

Ripple Rock was an infamous underwater mountain located in the Seymour Narrows. Boat traffic had to navigate around the two peaks of Ripple Rock that were just below the surface at low tide, creating dangerous eddies and whirlpools that posed a significant hazard to navigation. The rock was responsible for numerous shipwrecks and the loss of at least 114 lives. The solution to this problem was a major engineering feat that led to one of the largest non-nuclear explosions in history.

What Captain George Vancouver described as “one of the vilest stretches of water in the world” had now been significantly improved. If you have 8 minutes to spare, I think you will find the solution fascinating. Check out the video on Ripple Rock.

We met the crew of Norista while at Blind Channel Resort. This is one of the first Grand Banks built using fiberglass (1973), and they are the original owners. What a beautiful boat! We are both just starting Seymour Narrows.

August 23, 2024 – Friday

When we first awoke, the bay was completely shrouded in fog, creating an almost mystical atmosphere. As the fog began to lift, we set off before sunrise, navigating through passages filled with debris from a recent spring tide and a 24-hour downpour. The logs we maneuvered around were massive, some stretching 30-40 feet long. With the fog drifting in and out and the logs floating around us, there wasn’t much time for pictures—Mother Nature kept us on our toes.

Despite the challenges, the sight of the mountains emerging and disappearing in the fog was awesome. As we entered Blind Channel, a sense of calm returned. We weren’t alone; many cruisers were also making their way south, and by day’s end, every dock at Blind Channel Resort was full. We’ll be staying here until at least Sunday, waiting for the right weather conditions to navigate Seymour Narrows.