We love to get our fruits and vegetables at the local Famer’s Market but it seems that, as of late, we are always in towns on the wrong day of the week. Today was the Famer’s Market for Brockport so we delayed leaving this morning until after going to the market. We were so glad we did, the market was small but the selection was perfect, now we need to eat all that we purchased before it goes bad.
Small Medina, population 5,784, has two Ripley’s Believe it or Not entry’s. Culvert Road is the only place in which a road passes under the Erie Canal and St. John’s Episcopal Church, built in the 1830’s, is the “Church in the Middle of the Road.”
What the Village of Medina is famous for is its “Medina Sandstone” a brown stone used widely in buildings not only in this region but throughout the states and England. One such building is Bent’s Opera House, built during the Civil War, it is one of the oldest surviving theaters in the United States. Buffalo Bill Cody, P. T. Barnum, violinists Remenyi and Camilla Urso, and politician William Randolph Hearst were among the hundreds of performers who shared their talents at the Bent’s Opera House.
Cruising down the canal you can certainly tell that this is farm country. At Medina the Oak Orchard Creek not only provides water for the farmers, it also travels beneath the Erie Canal and then drops forty-feet to create the lovely Medina Waterfall.
At the Medina Public Dock, workers are priming the wall for a new paint job. It seems the Sailing Canal Boat Lois McClure is coming to town and the town management wants all in ship-shape order.
Today we took advantage of the free bicycles at Brockport City Dock to ride the Canalway Trial to Holley. When building the original canal Holley represented a unique engineering problem for the builders because of the unusually deep ravine formed by the east branch of the Sandy Creek. Engineers decided to diverge from the canals general; east-west route to minimize the amount of construction required by creating a sharp loop more than 2,000 feet to the south. The sharp curve required boaters to slow down, which made a promising location for canal-oriented businesses, thus the Village of Holley grew.
Surplus water from the canal and the steep embankment has created a beautiful waterfall and the Village of Holley has enhanced the setting creating a lovely village park.
Bicycling the trail was both pleasurable and entertaining, we now call this section of the trail “Butterflies and Grasshoppers.” We had butterflies flying with us the entire way home and grasshoppers hopping about, one even hopped on Rick’s arm and rode with him for about a mile.
Back at Brockport, in search of a store, we added another five miles of walking, we could have continued using the bicycles but Rick’s had a very uncomfortable seat and he said he would rather walk.
Visiting the museum we learned that at the turn of the twentieth century the Village of Spencerport, incorporated in 1865, was primarily a farming community. The farmers of Spencerport used the Erie Canal to export apples, potatoes, and cabbage east in exchange for manufactured goods. Today it is primarily a tourist town, we enjoyed walking the Canalway Trail and around the manicured town but we didn’t see many tourists.
A very lazy day, only 7.5 miles to Brockport, no locks, and no lift bridges, just watching for logs and enjoying the scenery. We arrived in Brockport just in time to watch a fisherman land a good size carp.
The Village of Brockport, incorporated in 1829, was once a booming manufacturing village shipping its goods up and down the Erie Canal. These goods included farm implements, shoes, paper boxes, pianos, small appliances, glass bottles, clocks, and galvanized pails and tubs. Now it is home to State University of New York College at Brockport, home of 8,413 students. It might have been a lazy day on the water but with the three-mile walk this morning and six-mile walk this afternoon I think we did okay in the exercise department.
Take a look at the Rock Cut video, can you image digging that by hand.
Spencerport Towpath Park
Dumpster Breakfast
Honoring 9-11
Rainy Day
Remarkable Chimes
Spencerport Deport & Canal Muesem
Canal Mules
Canal Wildflowers
Canal Wildflowers
Canal Wildflowers
Canal Wildflowers
Canal Wildflowers
Canal Wildflowers
Canal Wildflowers
Canal Wildflowers
Carp Surrender
Morgan-Manning House
Morgan-Manning Carriage House
State University of New York-College at Brockport Golden Eagles
We loved all the activity at Pittsford, kids feeding the ducks, Pittsford Crew practicing for their regatta, tourists waiting in line for a day trip on the Sam Patch Canal Boat, people walking, bicycling, kayaking, and eating ice cream at the local Pittsford Farms Dairy where they still sell milk in glass bottles. So many of the small towns along the Erie are struggling but the pulse of Pittsburg is strong.
Rain on the canal kept us at the dock until 2:00 pm, a little late in the day to leave but we were only going seventeen miles and the rest of the day was beautiful. We went through Locks E32 and E33, both 25 feet. In Lock E32 the leaks in the lock doors create a waterfall effect below the upper doors. We also passed through the East Guard Lock and the West Guard Lock, these gates were installed at the Genesee River crossing to protect the canal from flooding and to maintain pool levels. The Genesee River is the only river on the Western portion of the canal that is at the same level as the canal. You can see in the picture how, if both gates are closed, it would create a lock.
We saw several waterfalls along the canal today, evidence of how much rain we have had and there are still predictions of more rain. By the time we reached Spencerport we were a little tired and decided to have dinner on the boat and do our sightseeing in the morning.
Short cruise today, seven miles from Fairport to Pittsford. We stopped at the Pittsford Free Dock in order to walk part of the Canaltrail and to see the remains of Lock 62. We had a great day from start to finish, we love seeing people out exercising and taking advantage of their environment.
At Schoen’s Place, a newly rejuvenated canal area just across the canal from the Pittsford Free Dock, we had lunch at Simply Crêpes Café, watched the kids feed the ducks, and went for a walk on the Canalway Trail, taking a detour to see the remains of Lock 62.
The original canal went right through downtown Rochester at Locks 62 and 63, however, with the 1918 upgrade of the Erie Canal it was rerouted through Pittsburg, Locks 32 and 33. Lock 62 was built in 1857 as a single chamber lock. In 1873 a second lock was added, and in 1888 the second lock was enlarged.
At one of the specialty shops in Fairport, we purchased some homemade Pierogies, we had to Google “Pierogie” to know what they are. Pierogies are made by wrapping pockets of unleavened dough around a savory or sweet filling and then boiling, sautéing, or baking them. We had Pulled Pork Pierogies with veggies. Fun evening cooking on Andiamo, and yes, we loved them.
Rain kept us in Newark most of the morning and we used that time to do laundry and boat chores, by 11:30 it had cleared and we were on our way. Today our passage took us up Lock E29 and Lock E30 – both 16 feet, as we made our way to Fairport. It is said that the next 100 miles of the Erie Canal most closely resembles the original Canal, as a ditch dug through the landscape with a towpath on both sides.
Since we are expecting mail to arrive in Buffalo next week, we are in no hurry to complete the canal. We plan to just meander through the small villages along the way, visit with locals, and take the time to enjoy the Erie Canalway Trail. Fairport, a very popular stop along the canal, is considered to be the Crown Jewel of the Erie Canal. We loved the local library with its emphasis on serving teens and children, the specialty shops, and walking along the Canalway Trail.
We had seen several tourist canal boats and had assumed that they were piloted by qualified captains. Last night, when one docked behind us, we realized that was not the case. The captain seemed to be having trouble docking so Rick went out to provide assistance. It seems that anyone can rent and captain a canal boat after going through a two-hour hands-on lesson.
The lift bridge crossing the canal on Main Street is one of the most unusual bridges in New York State. Completed in 1914, the bridge has an irregular 10-sided design and crosses the Erie Canal at an angle of 32 degrees from southwest to northeast. Every angle of the bridge is unique, and there are no square corners on the bridge floor.
Tonight Rick received an advisory that, due to high water levels and swift current from recent heavy rainfall & runoff, the Erie Canal will be closed from Locks E-24 Baldwinsville to E-29 Palmyra, as will the Cayuga-Seneca Canal from the junction of the Erie Canal to Lock CS-1 Cayuga. That is the area we have just left and although we are not in a hurry, we are happy not to be “locked in.”
Great Blue Heron
Canal Boat
Don’t Worry, Be Happy
Fairport Yacht Club
Flowers at Lunch
Fairport
Fairport Tiki Boat
Wooden Fenders
Dock Master’s Office: Old Trolly Waiting Shelter
Along the Path
DeLand Family Home
Gelato Shop
Fairport Daybreck
Fairport City Hall
Barbara’s Granite Kitchen Countertop (She lost the coin toss!)
Leaving Seneca Falls we retraced our trip on the Cayuga-Seneca Canal, going down the staircase Locks CS3 and CS2 – both 25 feet, down Lock CS1 – 7.5 feet, and back to the Erie Canal. On the Erie we transited an addition five locks; Lock E25 – 6 feet, Lock E26 – 6 feet, Lock E27 – 12 feet, Lock E28A – 20 feet, and Lock E28B – 12 feet for a total rise of 56 feet. Eight locks in one day.
On our way to Newark we passed Clyde and Lyon, both villages that offer free docks to boaters on the Erie Canal, Lyons was known for being the home of one of the most successful and prestigious businesses in the world. The H.G. Hotchkiss International Prize Medal Essential Oil Company, at that time peppermint oil was in common use as a home remedy for digestive, respiratory and other common ailments.
Tonight we are at the T. Spencer Knight Canal Port, Newark. We had just enough time for a lovely walk around the village and dinner at a local pub before the rain started. We particularly enjoyed the lovely murals on the Veteran Bridge which represented stories about the Erie Canal.
July 21-Friday: Today was a lovely day, beautiful homes, small river homes, farms, corn, hay, herons, kingfishers, otters, eagles and more, great cruise down the river. The sad part is that they have had so much rain that many docks are under water and the water is inching towards their homes.
As we transited one of the locks, I asked the lockmaster if there were any female lockmasters on the Erie, we had not seen one. He said he thought there was one or two but should be more. He then disappeared into his building and came back out with an application form for me, maybe my new calling.
At Mile 201.38, canal junction of the Erie and Cayuga-Seneca Canals, we decided to take Lee’s advice and do a side trip to Seneca Falls, which is about 8 miles south of the Erie Canal. To get there we had to transit Lock CS1 – 7.5 feet and the ‘stair case locks’ at CS2 and CS3 – both 25 feet, they are called stair case locks because you go directly from one lock into the next lock.
In the early 1800’s Seneca Falls was a thriving mill town, when Seneca River was dammed near the current Locks C2 & C3 it created a 50-foot deep lake, Van Cleef Lake, that submerged many of the mills and much of downtown Seneca Falls. We are looking forward to visiting the town as it is known as the birthplace of the women’s rights movement, houses the National Women’s Hall of Fame, and claims to be the town that Bedford, from the 1946 film “It’s A Wonderful Life,” was modeled after.
Tonight we are at Seneca Falls Free Dock and plan to stay until Sunday, most of the free docks have a 48-hour limit.
July 22-Saturday: This has been the coolest day we have had in months, it was so pleasant. We spent most of the day exploring the town and visiting several of their museums, starting at the Seneca Museum which showcased the development and reform movements of the area.
The First Women’s Rights Convention took place at Wesleyan Chapel in July 1848. Outside the chapel is a waterwall with the Declaration of Sentiments engraved in stone. This document is recognized as the founding document of the women’s rights movement and is modeled after the Declaration of Independence, boldly proclaiming that “all men and women are created equal.”
The Seneca Falls Historical Society is located in a 23 room 1880 Queen Ann Style Mansion, unfortunately, by the time we made it there they were closed. While looking at the Historical Society buildings we were chatted-up by a local couple who shared much of the town history with us. She was born in Clyde, NY he, an ex-FBI agent in Seneca Falls. They shared stories about the town and showed us the street that led into the valley before it was flooded. Fun day!
Baldwinsville Sunrise
Baldwinsville Steeple
Preparing Andiamo
Graveyard Sentry
Boat Garage: Rick wants one!
On the River
Elephants?
High Water
Lone Eagle
Ready to Fly
1862 Montezuma Aqueduct
1862 Montezuma Aqueduct
Cayuga Seneca Canal Lock 2
Trinity Episcopal Church
1844 Seneca Knitting Mill: Future Home of National Women’s Hall of Fame
Location of !st Women’s Rights Convention
Declaration of Sentiments Wall
Bronze Statues Representing Participants of the First Women’s Rights Convention
To the Martyrs who fell and the heroes who fought in defense of Liberty and the Union. 1861-1865
July 19-Wed: Anxious to move on, we left Ilion Marina and headed for Sylvan Beach, home of the only amusement park on the Erie Canal. However, we were not headed for the amusement park but for a place to stay while we waited for the right conditions to cross Oneida Lake. Oneida Lake is the largest lake entirely within New York State, 21 miles long, 5 miles wide with an average depth of 22 feet. In a sustained west wind, the waves can become 4 to 5 feet, creating an uncomfortable crossing. It looks like Sunday will be the best day but we are hoping we can leave before then.
Before arriving at Mariner’s Landing we transited four locks. Lock #19 – 21 feet, Lock #20 -16 feet, Lock #21 – 25 feet, and Lock #22 – 25 feet. Locks #21 and #22 are our first down locks on the Erie so although we transited 87 feet at the end of the day we were only 13 feet lower.
July 20-Thur: After checking the weather forecast late Wednesday, we decided an early morning crossing of Oneida Lake was do-able. By daybreak, we were ready to make our crossing. The wind was a little more than predicted, waves were one-two feet for the first half of the trip and almost zero for the rest of the crossing and we were in Brewerton by 8:00 am.
At Brewerton, we transited Lock # 23 – 7 feet, the last of the down locks when going west. The junction of the Erie and Oswego Canals is at mile 160.45, decision time, stay on the Erie or take the Oswego to Canada, we stayed on the Erie. Our last lock of the day was Lock #24 – 11 feet at Baldwinsville. We tied up at the Baldwinsville Free Dock, or as some call it Graveyard Dock, just in time for a rain storm.
The past two days we have been locking with Nellie Bell, a 25-foot Nimble. Tonight her captain dropped by and recommended a side trip to Seneca Falls on the Cayuga-Seneca Canal. We’ll have to give that some thought.
The rain and debris continue to keep us in port. This morning we had breakfast with the crew of s/v Solitude, Dale and Carol, at the local Farm House Restaurant, we have had a great time trading books, sharing information, and telling tall tales.
The big news of the day was that the replicas of Christopher Columbus’ Ships, the Niña (65 feet in length), and the Pinta (85 feet in length), stopped for the night at Ilion Marina. Wow, talk about ‘word of mouth’ although the stop was unexpected, by the end of the evening we think every family in town came by to check them out.
Starting in 1492, Columbus sailed the Niña across the Atlantic on three voyages to the new world. At over 25,000 miles, this makes our trip look like a kid’s birthday party. Built by hand from 1988-1991, the current Niña is considered the most historically accurate replica ever constructed. The ships belong to the Columbus Foundation and serve as museums to educate the public on 15th-century sailing. They are currently traveling along the Erie Canal on their way to Oswego, NY.
