Black Warrior-Tombigbee Waterway – Nancy and Rick Unplugged

Gulf Crossing

March 20-21, 2017 – Monday & Tuesday

Monday we awoke before sunrise and watched the fishermen come and go as we started our final preparations for the gulf crossing. Our neighbor’s at the marina, Michael & Vickie on S/V Krakato, were also preparing for the crossing. Krakato left around 10:15 and we pulled away from the fuel dock at 11:55. We did not want to arrive on the East side of the gulf until the sun had risen high enough that we could see all of the crab pots that we needed to navigate around before anchoring.

While we were in the shelter of Apalachicola Bay, the seas were calm and we had very little wind. When we crossed Government Cut into the open gulf the seas were between two and three feet with the wind 10-15 mph. According to the weather report, the seas were supposed to calm after about three hours, but they stayed at 3-4 feet until around midnight (Rick’s watch) at which time both the wind and waves died and we had a beautiful night crossing with hundreds of stars and a half-moon that arose directly in front of the boat, giving us a moon-glow on the water until sunrise (Nancy’s watch).

At about 6:00 pm on Monday we spotted Krakoto in the distance and passed her about 3:00 am Tuesday, it was comforting to see her near for most of the night. After twenty-four hours and forty minutes we safely anchored off the Anclote Keys, just off the mainland. Krakoto arrived and anchored about an hour after we did. They have just retired from jobs in Texas and are planning on living in the Caribbean for the next few years, we wish them safe travels.

Fun Fact: I’m not saying it was bumpy, but by the time we anchored, our step counters showed that we had 22,500 steps for the day.

Apalachicola, FL

March 19, 2017 – Monday

In preparation for our gulf crossing, we walked the fisherman’s marina and talked to the locals about weather and the sea state of Government Cut. All weather reports and all local knowledge reports are good and it looks like we are ready for a gulf crossing tomorrow afternoon.

After talking with the local fishermen we visited the Orman House Historic State Park and Chapman Botanical Garden. The 1838 antebellum Orman House, built with pre-cut wood from Syracuse, New York and shipped to Apalachicola, was owned by Thomas Orman, a man who helped the transformation of the area from wilderness to the third largest cotton shipping port on the Gulf coast. Like the tides, Apalachicola’s affluence has risen and fallen many times throughout history. As both a steamboat port and railroad depot its fortunes have risen and fallen with the fishing, lumber, and cotton industries. Its current industry seems to be mostly tourism. The gardens of the Orman House holds the Three Soldiers, Detail statue, a one of a kind bronze sculpture made from the original mold of the Three Servicemen Statue that is part of the Vietnam Memorial in Washington, D.C.

In the evening we looked up Robert E. and joined him for happy hour at the Apalachicola ICE House. Searching for a way to leave the cold of the north (Kentucky?) behind, Robert E. and his wife have moved to Apalachicola and live onboard Stella Blue, a 27 foot Ranger Tug. At the ICE House the locals, transplants, and visitors enjoyed beer, tall tales, and Sweet Tea Two, a great local band. The ICE House used to be a machine shop with a shaft on the ceiling the length of the building that drove milling machines, lathes, and drills all by a belt drive.

St. Joe, FL to Apalachicola, FL

March 18, 2017 – Saturday

With calm seas and light wind, leaving St. Joe Marina was much smoother than when we arrived. We traveled back under the Highway 98 bridge, sailed five miles up the Gulf County Channel, and headed east on the ICWW, which at this point, includes Wimico Lake and the Jackson River. The Gulf County Canal lighting was perfect for water reflections, we saw our first tug since Alabama, lots of birds, and lots of people fishing.

Arriving in Apalachicola, Rick was thrilled to find the Water Street Hotel & Marina, the marina has floating docks and gave us a Looper discount. After securing the boat we when to Up the Creek Raw Bar for cocktails and a beautiful view of the both the Apalachicola River and Scipio Creek.

Interesting Fact: The first steam railway in Florida, 1836, was named after Lake Wimico and St. Joseph, Lake Wimico & St. Joseph Railroad Company.

Happy Saint Patrick’s Day!

March 17, 2017 – Friday

We are expecting to be able to make the gulf crossing on Mon-Tue. Since the wind is still blowing at about 15-20 mph we have decided to stay at our marina for another night. Today we visited with fellow loopers aboard “in HIS time”, went for a six-mile hike, and hung around the marina. At the marina, we were entertained by both seabirds and dolphins. The dolphins were in the marina fishing just a few feet from our boat.

This bench chain has been here for a long time…

On the Move

March 14-15, 2017

With the arrival of Spring, we were anxious to start the next segment of our adventure. The weather isn’t perfect for our gulf crossing, but we decided to move further to the east so that we would be in position for the next good weather window. We had thought that a Friday night crossing might be possible but now it is looking like it will be at least Monday.

We left Bay Point Marina Tuesday under grayish skies and a light chop in the shipping channel, knowing that after we crossed the channel we would enter the calm water of the ICWW. I think we found where old boats go to die, in a forty-mile stretch of waterway we saw more abandoned boats than we saw wildlife.

The six and a half hour trip from PCB to Port Saint Joe was uneventful until we left the ICWW and entered the gulf. With waves at four feet and the wind at 30 mph, the short trip to the Port St. Joe Marina was very exciting. Even when we entered the marina the wind made it difficult to enter our slip, instead of backing into our assigned slip we pulled up to a long pier, where I was able to get off the boat and tie us safely to the pilings. After taking care of the boat we joined EB, Pat, and Atticus at the Dockside Café for dinner.

Today was sunny, windy, and cold. We cleaned the boat, visited downtown Port Saint Joe, and walked the Bay Walk Trail which traces the shoreline of St. Joe Bay.

In case you are wondering, we are now on Eastern Standard Time.

Leaving Bay Point Marina

Saying goodbye to Alligator Point

Entering the ICWW

Spring on the ICWW

Boat Graveyard

Egret

Blue Heron

Loon

Rick, Nancy, Pat and EB

Opa and Atticus

Bay Walk Trail

Cape San Blas Lighthouse

First Lily on the Pond

Spring Break

Snowy Egret

Great Blue Heron

Adiamo

Three Rivers Lake to Mobile Bay Alabama

December 9, 2016 – Friday

At o-dark-thirty the narrow channel leading back to the river seemed rather challenging, however, the sunrise added a brighter perspective.

The navigation markers are not always where they should be. I’m pretty sure that red one should be anchored in the river.

The above deer, along with three of his friends crossed the river in front of Andiamo and ran like a bullet as they exited the water. We, also, exited the river today and entered Mobile Bay. Hopefully, the following pictures will give you a taste of the flora, fauna, and commerce of this section of the river.

T/V Miss Becky – Without barges, she is going 11 knots.

Miss Becky and Andiamo wait at the CSX Rail Road Swing Bridge as a train crosses the bridge. (5′)

With the bridge open, we continue down river.

Magnetic crane releasing scrap metal onto a barge.

More scrap metal…this time it is being dropped into a truck.

It was a rough crossing from the end on the BWTW to Dog River Marina where we docked for the night. The waves were short, the sun was blinding, and there was a fair amount of traffic.

On a humorous note, a larger M/V flew around us in the shipping channel adding an additional wake. When he made the sharp turn into the channel leading to Dog River he lost his bearings. In the end, he humbly followed us the rest of the way in.

Big step up. Now the wait for a good weather day to cross Mobile Bay to the Gulf Coast.

Bobby’s Fish Camp to Three Rivers Lake

December 8, 2016 – Thursday

Coffeeville Lock and Dam (34′) This is a final lock on the on the BWTW.

Several times we have seen items dumped at the river, washer, dryer, hot water heater, and furniture like this bed. I wonder how the people who dump these items believe that it is appropriate.

At the anchorage, Rick was happy with his crock-pot meal.

Bashi Creek to Bobby’s Fish Camp

December 7, 2016 – Wednesday

Wednesday morning we said goodbye to Paul and Jean and headed out of Bashi Creek. We started our day watching T/V Jackson III pass the creek on his way South.

Sandy Beach – Soon it will be a sandy beach with blue water. 🙂

T/V Jock made a u-turn in front of us and, in the picture, are in the process of picking up a mooring.

Bobby’s dock is only about 120 feet long. Grateful II, Serenity, Andiamo, and Veritas took up the entire dock, including the fueling section. When a boat came in for fuel, they had to raft to Veritas.

Enjoyed Irish coffee with Susan and David on S/V Veritas

Demopolis to Bashi Creek

December 6, 2016 – Tuesday

With a break in the weather, seven boats left the marina at day-break to continue their trip down the Black Warrior Tenn-Tombigbee Waterway. Rick and I followed Andiamo out of the marina, they went left to the fuel dock and we continued with the other boats to the Demopolis Lock and Dam.

M/V Andiamo – 80’ (Wonder how I can get an upgrade.)

Demopolis Locks (40’) – Egrets on the lock doors.

In 1979 the tugboat Cahaba, captained by one Jimmy Wilkerson, almost overturned and sank under the Rooster Bridge. The bridge is no longer there but you can see where it once crossed the river.

M/V Andiamo fueled up, went through the locks about 45 minutes after we did, and passed us fifteen miles downriver.

Views from the Black Warrior-Tombigbee Waterway

Rentz Ferry Ox Bow – One of the many 180 degrees switchbacks on the Black Warrior-Tombigbee Waterway (BWTW)

Meridan and Bigbee Rail Road Lift Bridge. This bridge is 45’ closed and 55’ open, it is up unless a train is coming. In either case, not a problem for Andiamo.

In the afternoon, we tucked into Bashi Creek and rafted with M/V Bob Tale. We had a wonder evening sharing tall tales with her owners, Paul and Jean.

Last Day in Demopolis, Alabama

December 5, 2016 – Monday

Today was a full day of preparations. Welcomed by a heron guarding the fuel dock, we refueled at 7:30 am, filled the water tank, cleaned Andiamo, used the courtesy car to get groceries, and did laundry. p1010681 We plan to leave for Mobil, AL tomorrow. On the river, the distance from Demopolis to Mobil is 216.2 statute miles (187.9 nautical miles). On the highway that’s usually pretty straight forward, it is a little more complicated on the river. At an average of 6.5 knots per hour, we expect to be on the river for 3 nights. The challenges are that there are no marinas, at low water conditions no really good anchorages, and our daylight hours are much reduced from summer hours. The plan is to anchor on Tuesday night, stay at Bobby’s Fish Camp on Wednesday, anchor on Thursday night, and be in Mobil by Friday evening.

Bobby’s Fish Camp is not a true marina, but it is one of the oldest restaurants in southwest Alabama. The restaurant was built in 1956 by Bobby Dahlberg to service local river traffic, with the camp being built in 1960. The opening of the Tenn-Tom in 1985 resulted in an increase in yacht traffic, these yachts needed a place to refuel between Demopolis and Mobile. At the request of the Demopolis Yacht Basin Marina, Bobby installed a fueling station at his Fish Camp, thus becoming the smallest marina, with the least amenities, of the Tenn-Tom Marina Association. More on the Bobby’s after our visit.

Our last night in Demopolis.