Nancy and Rick Unplugged

August 6, 2024 – Tuesday

Today has been a fascinating day, filled with the wonders of wildlife. As we left the anchorage, we were greeted by harbor seals sunning themselves on the rocks of a navigation marker. A young buck deer swam gracefully across the bay, and a huge steller sea lion swam by the starboard side of Paradigm Lost, adding to the morning’s excitement.

Entering Wright Channel, we spotted a pod of whales about a mile off. All of a sudden, we were startled by a huge humpback surfacing not more than 3 boat links off of our port bow! We slowed the boat make sure there were no others around just in time to see him hump his back and dive, exposing an enormous tail. The thrill of seeing these magnificent creatures was short-lived as we were soon enveloped in fog for most of the morning. When the fog finally dissipated, we were treated to the stunning sight of mountains and waterfalls along Fraser Reach.

Arriving at Butedale, we were welcomed by an eagle soaring overhead and an otter catching a salmon for his evening meal. We spent the afternoon exploring the ruins of the old Butedale Cannery, a site rich in history. From 1911 until the 1970s Butedale was a bustling hub for the processing of various types of fish. Currently the area is in ruins but the new owners have plans to develop Butedale as a combined marina, high-end resort, and water-bottling plant. It will be interesting to see what develops in the next few years.

August 4, 2024, Sunday

Klewnuggit Inlet has been a true wonder of nature. As we anchored in this serene bay, we were greeted by the sight of countless jellyfish drifting gracefully in the water. It’s easy to see why many cruisers affectionately call this place “Jellyfish Bay.” The jellyfish, with their delicate, pulsating movements, created a mesmerizing underwater display that was both calming and captivating.

Our time here has also deepened our fascination with loons. While we had occasionally spotted a loon here and there, last night and today we were treated to the sight and sound of many loons. Their calls echoed through the inlet, creating a hauntingly beautiful soundtrack to our stay. We learned that loons have a repertoire of calls, including the wail, yodel, tremolo, and hoot, each serving different purposes such as long-distance communication, territory defense, and signaling distress. Their nocturnal choruses, described by writer John McPhee as “the laugh of the deeply insane,” added an eerie yet enchanting element to the night. Adding to the wonder of our surroundings, we observed a majestic eagle perched high in a tree, about 75 feet above the water. The eagle was sitting on a nest, a testament to the thriving wildlife in this pristine environment. The presence of these magnificent birds, along with the loons and jellyfish, underscored the untouched beauty and tranquility of Klewnuggit Inlet.

Jellyfish Video

Loon Video

S

August 3, 2024 – Saturday

Prince Rupert Harbor was bustling with activity as we departed. A couple of BC ferries were underway, along with a tow and barge, and a variety of small boats zipping around. It was a hazy day as we headed towards Grenville Channel, with calm waters and no wind to speak of.

As we entered Grenville Channel, the traffic began to thin out. Despite the channel’s reputation for being a busy waterway, we encountered very few boats on our way to Klewnuggit Inlet. The tranquility was a welcome change, allowing us to fully appreciate the stunning scenery around us.

As we traveled down the channel, the wind and waves gradually increased. By the time we arrived at Klewnuggit Inlet, the wind was blowing at 20-25 knots, and the waves had grown to 2-4 feet. The waves were coming from the stern, making the ride a bit bumpy but not too uncomfortable. We were relieved to turn into the calm waters of Klewnuggit Inlet, where we could finally relax and enjoy the peaceful surroundings.

We were amazed that the cruise ship was so close to our boat.

August 1, 2024 – Thursday

The first thing I noticed this morning was the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean, visible from the west side of Foggy Bay. I couldn’t help but wonder what adventures awaited us today.

Sunrise at Foggy Bay was a photographer’s dream, perfect for capturing reflection pictures. I particularly loved the shots of the boats anchored in the bay with us. We all planned to cross Dixon Passage today, and according to the latest information, today was the optimal time this week.

We were not disappointed. The wind remained below 12 knots all day, with gentle swells coming from our starboard side. For half of the journey, the tides gave us a pleasant push. The sunrise seemed to last forever, and we savored every stage of it—the sun peeking out from gray clouds, transitioning to white clouds, and finally to altocumulus clouds.

As we traveled along Holiday Passage, we observed the Green Island Lighthouse, prominently located on the isolated, barren, and windswept Green Island. Just 3 miles from the Alaskan border, it is the first notable landmark seen as marine traffic enters Canada. We also spotted sea lions sunning themselves on the rocky coastline.

The blue skies, white clouds, and sunshine were exactly what we had hoped for. Now, we are comfortably docked at Cow Bay Marina in Prince Rupert, BC, ready to explore the beauty and charm of this new destination.

This is the last place we saw whales in Alaska. Not many, not close, but a perfect goodbye gift.

Last picture in Alaska for this year.

July 31, 2024 – Wednesday

As we were leaving our slip, we spotted a majestic eagle perched on the mast of a sailboat, a sight that never fails to inspire awe. Needing fuel, we headed to the fuel dock near the seaplane dock, where we observed another eagle, this one resting on a workboat. It was eight o’clock in the morning, and the seaplane dock was bustling with activity. The crew was busy preparing the planes for the day. It was fascinating to watch as the four smaller planes (de Havilland Beavers) were moved one at a time from the ramp into the water and tied to the dock. Meanwhile, the two larger seaplanes (de Havilland Otters) were already in the water and took off while we were there.

In general, we prefer anchoring in a beautiful bay to enjoy the surrounding nature. However, being in a marina like North Harbor provides plenty of entertainment and information from the locals and fellow cruisers. Our destination was Foggy Bay, a popular location on the Revillagigedo Channel for cruisers either entering Alaska waters or heading back to Canada.

 If all goes well, this time tomorrow we will have crossed the open waters of Dixon Entrance and be in a slip at Cow Bay Marina,  Prince Rupert, BC. Alaska has been incredible and we are looking forward to returning next year, but for now we are looking forward the beauty and sunshine of Canada’s Sunshine Coast.

July 28-30, Sunday-Tuesday

We had a great time exploring Ketchikan, often hailed as “The Salmon Capital of the World.” Each July and August, Ketchikan Creek transforms into a bustling highway for spawning salmon. The iconic planks of Creek Street provide a front-row seat to this natural spectacle. During our visit, the creek was so teeming with salmon that it seemed like they had paved a shimmering path across the water.

Ketchikan, known for its heavy rainfall, receives 261% more rain than the national average. However, we struck gold with the weather—daytime was almost rain-free, allowing us to explore without a hitch. At night, the gentle patter of raindrops created a soothing symphony, adding a magical touch to our evenings.

The origins of Ketchikan’s name are as intriguing as the town itself. One theory suggests that the city is named after Ketchikan Creek, which flows through the town and empties into Tongass Narrows. The name “Ketchikan” is believed to come from the Tlingit word Kitschk-hin, meaning “Thundering Wings of an Eagle.” While we can’t confirm this legend, we were delighted to spot numerous majestic eagles soaring above.

Raven – Bath Time

Raven – Bath Time

July 27, Saturday

Leaving the calm waters of Myers Chuck, we ventured into the tumultuous expanse of Clarence Strait. The 15-20 knot winds battered our bow, while the currents pushed from the stern, creating a chaotic dance of 3-4 foot waves. Light fog further hindered our visibility, casting an eerie veil over the scene. The conditions were far from ideal for photography. The boat has no problems with this type of sea, it is the people inside that are always happy when the boat is not rolling and pitching. Happy to be in Ketchikan.

We are moored just two docks away from Alaska Marine Lines, a marine transportation company providing barge service to and from Washington, Alaska, and Hawaii. It’s always fascinating to watch their operations. We spent the evening observing the intricate dance of logistics as they loaded the barge. The tugboat pushed the barge into position, then stopped to allow it to maneuver into the direction needed for the next pull. Once the barge was aligned, the tugboat began its backward motion, carefully stopping at the right moment. When the barge finally came to a halt, the tugboat started pulling it towards its next destination.

Going North

July 26, Friday

We woke up to a calm bay surrounded by breathtaking beauty, perfect for capturing stunning water reflection photos. As we left Frosty Bay, we witnessed a little bird catch a fish almost its size, a delightful start to our day. As we departed the bay, the morning’s calmness faded. Despite the weather forecast predicting calm seas and five knots of wind, we soon found ourselves in rain, three-foot seas and 15-20 knots of wind from the south.

Fortunately, as we neared Myers Chuck the sun came out, the sea calmed, and we were treated to the incredible sight of humpback whales bubble feeding. Bubble feeding is a fascinating technique where whales create a circle of bubbles to trap fish, then swim upward with their mouths open to catch their prey. This remarkable display of nature’s ingenuity was a welcome distraction from the rough seas.

Arriving at Myers Chuck we found the dock almost full but managed to get the last spot. After docking Paradigm Lost, we went for a walk in the forest, which always renews us. The short, refreshing walk is not only rejuvenating but also fun, as you never know what interesting objects the local residents might have on display.

Whale Video

July 25, Thursday

Leaving the harbor, we joined a vibrant array of boats, each with its own purpose and destination. Some vessels were heading out for a day of fishing, their crews eager to reel in the day’s catch. Others were pleasure boats, filled with families and friends ready to enjoy a leisurely cruise. There were also commercial boats, transporting goods and supplies to various locations. Each boat moved in different directions, driven by the unique expectations and goals of their passengers. The bay was alive with activity, a testament to the diverse ways people connect with the water and the adventures it offers.

Going North we had transversed the west side of Wrangell Island via Zimovia Strait. On our trip back South we decided go down the east coast of Wrangell Island via the Eastern Passage, Bradfield Channel, and Seward Passage to Ernest Sound. It is longer but better protected and is said to be the most scenic. Below are pictures of mountains that still have a bit of snow, waterfalls, lush forest, USFS cabin, and loons singing. We were in awe of our surroundings and the fact that for this portion of our trip we only saw three other boats. Those boats were tour boats out of Wrangell to take tourist on a trip to Anan Bear and Wildlife Observatory. We were going slow, taking it all in, they were in speed boats going from point A to B and back, of course I’m sure they also had an amazing day, Anan is a world-class bear viewing area. The beauty of Alaska is truly unparalleled, and this journey reminded us to savor every moment of nature’s splendor.