Auke Bay to Hoonah

July 14-15, 2025 – Monday

Today brought another stretch of sunshine, a rare gift in this part of the world—and one we didn’t take for granted. We felt a buzz of anticipation as we ventured farther west through Southeast Alaska than we had yet traveled. The landscape seemed to rise up in celebration with us: rugged mountain ridges cloaked in deep green spruce and cedar, their sharp peaks softened by the haze of warmth. Along the shoreline, the trees stood tall and thick, brushing the sky as if reaching for the light. A single humpback surfaced with quiet grace, sending ripples across the still water, while bald eagles traced wide arcs overhead, watching as we passed.

Approaching Port Frederick, three cruise ships came into view—two docked at Icy Strait Point, and one anchored offshore, transferring passengers back and forth in a steady shuffle. The size and bustle were striking against the quiet beauty of the channel. But as we rounded the point, another sight surprised us even more: a broad, sandy beach alive with visitors, toes in the tide, laughter on the breeze. In a region defined by rocky shorelines and mist-wrapped inlets, the playful scene felt almost surreal—like stumbling upon a hidden slice of summer.

Scenes from Stephens Passage, Lynn Canal, and Icy Strait

July 15 -Tuesday

Nestled on the rugged shores of Chichagof Island, Hoonah, Alaska is a vibrant coastal town steeped in Tlingit heritage and framed by the wild beauty of the Tongass National Forest. With a population of just under 1,000, Hoonah stands as the largest Tlingit community in the state, offering a rare glimpse into Indigenous traditions that continue to thrive. Small but mighty, the people of this community have worked together to build a growing economy rooted in resilience and cultural pride.

As we spent the day immersed in local life, we admired intricately carved totem poles by talented local artists and learned about the marina’s evolving role in the town. One striking initiative is the paving of the breakwater out to Graveyard Island on the west shore of Port Frederick—an effort to ease the journey for burials held in that sacred place on Chichagof.

At the mouth of Port Frederick lies Icy Strait Point, a repurposed cannery turned cultural and adventure hub. Here, visitors can zoom down the world’s largest zipline, explore a museum rich with maritime and industrial history, head out on whale-watching excursions, or choose from a variety of outdoor adventures that celebrate the surrounding wilderness. We stayed closer to town, walking the nearby trails, conversing with locals, and sharing stories with fellow mariners—each encounter adding a new layer to the portrait of Hoonah’s heart and soul.

Hoonah in Focus

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