As we were going up the Detroit River we were hailed by the Coast Guard to be boarded. We were boarded in the Chesapeake Bay and they told us we would not need to be boarded again for a year. When we gave the paperwork to the young gentlemen they let it go without boarding, yeah we were just having lunch. Bad timing.
Leaving Gibraltar we had plans to traverse the Detroit River and go to a marina in St. Clair Lake. As we were passing Detroit the Coast Guard announced a storm on St. Clair Lake and advise all small craft to seek safe harbor. We had just enough time to pull into William G. Milliken State Park and Harbor before the downpour started, it is always good to be in a safe port.
Today we passed by Put-in-Bay and Perry’s Victory & International Peace Memorial National Monument. This monument was built from 1912 to 1915 “to inculcate the lessons of international peace by arbitration and disarmament.” Six officers of the War of 1812 are buried beneath the monument, three American officers, and three British officers. It was here that Perry defeated the British in the War of 1812 and sent the following message to his commanding officer, “We have met the enemy and they are ours…” The monument is the world’s most massive Doric column at 352 feet, only the Gateway Arch, the San Jacinto Monument, and the Washington Monument are taller.
We have been to the Rock of Gibraltar several times and tonight we are at the Gibraltar Marina in Gibraltar, Michigan. This Gibraltar is definitely not a tourist destination, but the people here at the marina are friendly and have been very helpful.
We have completed the Lake Erie portion of our trip and are headed for Lake Huron. To get there we will go twenty-eight miles up the Detroit River, twenty-one miles across Lake St. Clair, and then forty-one miles up the St. Clair River. For the entire ninety miles, the United States will be on our port-side and Canada will be to our starboard.
Lake Erie was a bit choppy when we left Edgewater Marina at sunrise but smoothed out after a few hours and we had a laid-back day on the water, albeit with poor visibility. We decided to do a little island hopping and made our way to Kelleys Island to visit the Glacial Grooves State Memorial. This section of grooves from the Wisconsin Glacier is 400-feet long, 35-feet wide, and up to 15-feet deep and was excavated in 1972. The plaque at the Glacier Grooves gives the following explanation for the grooves:
The Wisconsin Glacier: “The glacier responsible for the sculpting of these grooves began forming in the highlands of Labrador, Canada when the climate was cooler and wetter than it is now. During those wet and cold winters such a large quantity of snow fell that it did not all melt during the short, mild summers. As the snow piled up year after year, the weight of the snow mass increased, and the great pressure exerted on the deepest, oldest snow slowly converted it to ice. The glacier continued to grow, the pressure became greater, and more and more ice was formed. The thick ice under heavy pressure, even though it was still very solid, began to flow and ooze over the land surface like a sticky pancake batter in a ‘head over heels’ fashion. The ice at the bottom of the glacier dragged slowly over the ground and was continually overrun by the slightly faster-moving ice above it. Such movement is very slow, perhaps at a rate of only an inch or two per day.
It may have taken 5,000 years for the glacier, which advanced in a southwesterly direction during what is called the main Wisconsin glacial advance, to finally make its way from the point of origin to the area of Ohio. By the time the sculpting of the grooves reached its climax, the glacier was more than a mile thick here and it covered many thousands of square miles of land surface.”
Touring the rest of the island we discovered the 10-area Herndon Sculpture Garden, an eclectic array of work ranging from bright red modern pieces to classical pieces, all done by Charles Henderson. The gallery was closed but we enjoyed a peaceful stroll around the garden, we really liked his abstract stone sculptors.
What a difference a day makes. When we left Erie yesterday the forecast was waves one to two feet, what we got was two to four in the morning calming down to one to three in the afternoon. Today the lake was placid with the only waves coming from the wake of other boats, a perfect day to be on the water, or so we thought. By the time we got to Cleveland it had turned choppy and the waves were hitting our bow. Perfect morning, long afternoon.
We cruised by the Perry Nuclear Power Plant which began operation in 1987, it was the United States one hundredth nuclear power plant. More than one million homes get electricity from this plant. Since 1987 more have been built and others have been shut down, the total count for US nuclear reactors today stands at ninety-nine.
Cruising along the Cleveland skyline we passed two lighthouses while researching for the names of the lighthouses I came across a National Geographic photo of the West Pierhead Lighthouse, I’m not saying it gets cold in Cleveland but compare my picture with theirs
Aug. 8 – Tuesday: Today we visited Presque Isle State Park, often referred to as the crown jewel of Pennsylvania. The park, a 3,200-acre peninsula, is amazing and has so much to offer it would take days to do it all. Some of the highlights for us; beaches, walking trail, lighthouse & museum, boat houses on Horseshoe Pond, and the Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry Monument.
The Presque Isle Lighthouse is the second oldest lighthouse on Lake Erie and has had a resident for 141 years. Completed in 1873, it has been home to nine U.S. Lighthouse Service keepers and their families. The service keeper would climb to the top of the tower 3 to 4 times every night to put fuel in the lamp. The light beam from a single burning oil lamp was reflected through the fourth order Fresnel lens and was visible some thirteen nautical miles out into the lake.
At Horseshoe Pond, here is a community that consists of twenty-four houseboats. These boats, anchored in the calm, shallow water surrounded by sand dunes, beaches, and marshes, share their world with turtles, eagles, fish, and other animals. It is said, the one with a lighthouse catches sunfish through a hole in the kitchen floor.
Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry arrived at Erie, PA in the summer of 1813 and constructed a fleet that included the brigs USS Lawrence and USS Niagara. With this fleet he won the Battle of Lake Erie, sending the dispatch, “We have met the enemy, and they are ours.” The Battle of Lake Erie ensured U.S. control over Lake Erie and the territorial northwest.
Aug. 9 – Wednesday: No outings today, it was time to service the engine. Rick did the manual labor and I was his gopher for the day. When not working with Rick I conducted other boat duties.
Early this morning, I took a brief video of the marina bath house, this might seem strange to you but we have been to some marinas where the bath house is so bad that we retreat to Andiamo to shower. The facilities at this marina are, without a doubt, the best we have ever had. When you see the video I think you’ll understand.
Aug. 10 – Thursday: With the service on the boat complete, we spent a relaxing day at the Erie Bayfront visiting the Erie Maritime Museum area, checking out the USS Niagara, climbing around the Bi Cenntinal Tower, watching kids play, fishermen fish, and tourist boats.
Aug. 11 – Friday: All week we thought we would be able to leave today, however, Mother Nature had other plans and we had to spend another two days in port. We still had the car so we decided to explore further west following the Lake Erie Coastal Ohio Trail. At Conneaut, it was pouring rain, but there were still lots of people at the park under the covered pavilions or just sitting in their cars watching the storm.
Our next town was Ashtabula, the first city in Ohio to adopt an election system based on proportional representation and single transfer voting. In the middle of the 19th century it was an important destination on the Underground Railroad, at this point refugee slaves could take ships to Canada, gaining the freedom they longed for.
Geneva, originally settled in 1805, is known as the home of American Penmanship. Spencerian Script, developed in 1840, became the standard across the US until the 1920’s, at which time it was replaced by technology. The technology that replaced Spencerian Script was the typewriter, which is now also obsolete, technology marches on.
At Geneva-on-the-Lake we discovered Ohio’s first summer resort, a collection of fast food restaurants, old time arcades, miniature golf, Ferris wheel and more. For all my biker relatives, a major draw to the area is “Thunder on The Strip,” an annual Biker Rally held the weekend after Labor Day,
At Fairport Harbor, we viewed the Grand River Lighthouse, built in 1871, and went for a short walk around town. Unfortunately both the Fairport Harbor Marine Museum & Lighthouse and the Finnish Heritage Museum where closed.
The Lake Erie Coastal Ohio Trail runs 293-miles from Conneaut to Toledo but it was time for us to return to Erie. On our way back we left the trail to explore a few of the 16 drivable covered bridges of Ashtabula County. Built in 1868, the Root Road Bridge spans 114 feet over the west branch of the Ashtabula River. Both the Creek Road Covered Bridge, 125 feet long, and the Middle Road Covered Bridge, 136 feet long, span Conneaut Creek, nice back road country drive.
Aug. 12 – Saturday: With the car returned to Enterprise, and hopes of being able to leave tomorrow, we spent the day cleaning the boat. We were not alone, the dock was a buzz of activities with boaters repairing boats, cleaning boats, relaxing in the sun, reading a book or just visiting with other boaters. A few took their boats out but didn’t stay long and by 5:00 a dock party was in full swing. Great group of people, we certainly enjoyed our time here.
August 13 -Sunday: Finally, a break in the weather allowed us to leave Erie this morning and once again we find ourselves at Geneva-on-the-Lake. This time we came by boat and are staying at the State Park Marina.
In our travels, several people highly recommended that we visit Niagara-on-the-Lake, a charming 19th-century village in the heart of Canada’s wine country. Niagara-on-the-Lake, originally a Native Indian village named Onghiara, is located where the Niagara River flows into Lake Ontario. However, the town played an important part in Canada’s history, it was the first capital of Ontario and played a significant role in the War of 1812. Americans captured Fort George and occupied the area for seven months during the war, but abandoned the fort in December 1813. Re-occupying Fort George the British attacked and captured Fort Niagara and took strong control of the Niagara frontier.
We had a great time exploring the area and learning more about our history. As with so many Canadian towns, the flowers that line the streets were just stunning.
When we lived in Seoul, Rick got hooked on Flashpoint, a show that focused on a fictional elite tactical unit based in Toronto, we loved the show and decided this would be a great time to visit the city. First stop, CN Tower the tallest tower in the Western Hemisphere, completed in 1976 the CN Tower held the record for the world’s tallest free-standing structure for 32 years from 1975–2007.
Our personal foot tour then took us to the Toronto Waterfront. Toronto is home to one of the longest urban lakefronts in the world, ranging from Etobicoke Creek in the west to Rouge River in the east. What a great people watching place, activities here range from biking, kayaking, and lake cruises to the nearby Toronto Islands.
Going north we visited Queen’s Park which was opened in 1860 in honor of Queen Victoria. Along with striking grounds full of monuments and flowers, it is the home of the Ontario Legislative Building and is surrounded by the University of Toronto.
Heading back to the waterfront we wandered through Kensington Market, a National Historic Site of Canada. The Market is a long-standing area for independent shops/cafes, plus produce, meat & fish and is one of the oldest neighborhoods in Toronto. We spent several more hours enjoying the waterfront and then headed for our hotel in Kitchener. This was a major holiday in Canada and finding an affordable hotel in Toronto was impossible.
The next good weather window for moving west on Lake Erie is Friday, August 11th so we decided to take a side trip to Canada. On our way, we stopped at Dunkirk to video the lake, we wanted you to see why we are staying in port, going out would certainly be a bumpy ride.
We crossed over to Canada via the Peace Bridge that we had cruised under on Wednesday. We stopped in Canada to see the famed Niagara Falls, created by glacier activity around 10,000 years ago. Rick’s third visit and my first, Niagara Falls is breathtaking. It is actually composed of three falls: American Falls, Bridal Falls, and Canada Horseshoe Falls. Four of the Great Lakes: Erie, Huron, Michigan and Superior supply the water to the Niagara River that creates the falls. Once over the Niagara Falls, the water flows for 15 miles where it empties into the fifth great lake, Lake Ontario.
Daredevils have always been drawn to the falls. In 1859, the Charles Blondin walked a tightrope suspended above the rapids to become the first man to walk across the Niagara Falls. The first recorded person to survive going over the falls in a barrel was 63-year-old American school teacher Annie Edson Taylor.
Today the easiest, albeit a bit pricey, way to get up and personal with the falls is to take a trip on either the Hornblower in Canada or the Maid of the Mist on the US side of the falls.
August 2: Lake Erie is the shallowest of the Great Lakes with an average depth of 62-feet. Being the shallowest, it is also the warmest of the Great Lakes in the summer and the first to freeze in the winter. Because of its shallowness, the slightest breeze can kick up some very lively waves so we have to monitor the weather forecast very closely. Today predictions were for light winds in the early morning so we departed Buffalo at daybreak and headed for Dunkirk. When I called to make a reservation Sam said, “We have a few weeds in the water…” that was an understatement. The whole bay is covered in weeds that love wrapping around propellers and rudders.
In the afternoon we visited the Dunkirk Lighthouse & Veterans Park Museum, the location where the first Lake Erie Battle of the War of 1812 took place.
August 3: Today’s weather forecast was for light winds in the early morning with rain showers in the afternoon which meant another daybreak departure. The winds were light, water smooth and we made a quick run to Erie, Pennsylvania, the rain waited until about 6:00. We will be here a week to service the engine, get mail, and visit Niagara Falls.
Leaving the Erie Canal we headed southwest on the Niagara River to Black Rock Lock, here we rose 7-feet to enter the Black Rock Channel. Constructed by the Corps of Engineers in the early 1900’s the channel provides protection from the reefs, rapids, and fast currents in the upstream Niagara River. If you look closely at the picture, you might be able to see that the effects of the current in the Niagara River. From the lock, the Black Rock Channel extends three and a half miles to Buffalo Harbor where we stayed for the night. Next portion of our adventure, Lake Erie.