Month: August 2024

August 9, Friday

This morning was completely socked in with fog, creating an almost surreal atmosphere. There were four boats anchored in Rescue Cove last night, and when we woke at 6:00 am, we could barely make out their anchor lights through the dense mist. So much for our plan to leave at seven.

As the fog began to lift, one by one, we started leaving the clear bay, only to find that Mathieson Channel was still shrouded in fog. For the next four hours, our visibility was severely limited, never extending beyond ¾ mile and sometimes shrinking to just ¼ mile. The last boat to leave the bay didn’t have AIS, so they followed us past Perceval Narrows.

We were fortunate that by the time we reached Perceval Narrows, we had a mile of visibility, which allowed us to navigate through the rocky passage safely. However, shortly after leaving the narrows, the fog closed in on us once again. It stayed with us for another hour before finally dissipating.

When the fog lifted, we were greeted by the welcome sight of blue skies. It was such a relief to see the sun shining again, and it made the rest of our journey much more enjoyable. The change in weather lifted our spirits, and we felt a renewed sense of adventure as we continued on our way. By the time we reached Shearwater Marina on Denny Island, we were tired but happy to be safely moored. We plan to stay here until Monday and will send another blog entry on Tuesday.

August 8, 2024 – Thursday

Today was a very quiet day, marked by serene and tranquil moments. We left Windy Bay and entered the fog-covered Sheep Passage, where the mist added an air of mystery to our journey. The silence was only broken by the gentle lapping of water against the boat, creating a peaceful ambiance.

Our adventure took us to Mathieson Narrows, marking the beginning of our introduction to the Fiordland Conservancy. The scenery here was nothing short of breathtaking, with lush forests, glacial fjords, and towering waterfalls. The steep granite cliffs stood majestically, providing a dramatic backdrop to the variety of birds that filled the air with their songs. We were thrilled to spot two humpback whales, their majestic presence adding to the magic of the day.

One of the highlights of our journey was visiting Kynoch Waterfall, just one of the many tall waterfalls that grace Fiordland. The sight of the cascading water was mesmerizing, and we couldn’t help but marvel at the natural beauty surrounding us. As we traveled down Mathieson Passage, we got a small taste of this remote and pristine area, feeling a deep connection to the untouched wilderness.

Throughout the day, we saw only one other vessel, emphasizing the solitude and remoteness of our location. Our journey eventually led us to Rescue Bay, where we found a calm anchorage. The day was filled with moments of awe and wonder, leaving us with a profound appreciation for the natural world and the serene beauty of Fiordland Conservancy.

Kynoch Falls Video

August 7, 2024 – Wednesday

Today was another foggy day, though not as dense as yesterday, making it less stressful to navigate. Over the past several days we had seen very few boats on the water. However, today was different. It seemed to be a special day for Canadian fishers, as we had plenty of company on the water, with most of them engaged in fishing. The fishing boats varied in size, from small sport fishing vessels to large commercial fishing boats.

While yesterday’s highlight was the abundance of wildlife, today we were mesmerized by the stunning waterfalls. We were fortunate to see whales again, mostly in the distance, which wasn’t ideal for photography but perfect for observation. As we entered Hiekish Narrows, our speed dropped from 6 to 3 knots due to the strong current. Rick described the narrows as akin to going upstream in a fast-flowing river, where the currents constantly tried to push us against the rocks.

A memorable part of the day was a humpback whale that seemed to guide us through Hiekish Narrows. We first spotted the whale as we approached the entry, swimming from the east side to the west directly in front of us. Throughout our passage through the narrows, the whale would surface, blow several times, and then dive back down, leading us all the way to the end. As we exited, it gave us a final show with three more blows and a tail flip before disappearing below.

After leaving the narrows, we passed a fish farm and reminisced about how this area was the first place we had seen a whale on our journey north. From the narrows, we headed east up Sheep Passage to Windy Bay, where we found calm anchorage and were serenaded by various bird sounds. We were particularly entertained by a little gull that claimed a small piece of wood as its boat for the evening. Despite others trying to take the log, the gull was determined to keep it. Eventually, the tide carried the gull behind our boat and out of the bay, about a mile away.

The Little Gull, the world’s smallest gull, has a graceful flight style similar to a tern, but with rounded wingtips. They are fascinating creatures known for their agility and social nature. These birds often form large flocks, relying on group dynamics for protection and efficient foraging. Their diet consists mainly of insects, small fish, and crustaceans, which they skillfully catch with their nimble movements. Unlike their larger counterparts, little gulls are more adaptable to various environments, including inland areas. They prefer concealed nesting sites within large colonies, providing safety in numbers. Despite their size, these seagulls exhibit remarkable adaptability and resourcefulness, making them a captivating creature to watch. We have loved watching them interact with each other.

Butedale Waterfall Video

August 6, 2024 – Tuesday

Today has been a fascinating day, filled with the wonders of wildlife. As we left the anchorage, we were greeted by harbor seals sunning themselves on the rocks of a navigation marker. A young buck deer swam gracefully across the bay, and a huge steller sea lion swam by the starboard side of Paradigm Lost, adding to the morning’s excitement.

Entering Wright Channel, we spotted a pod of whales about a mile off. All of a sudden, we were startled by a huge humpback surfacing not more than 3 boat links off of our port bow! We slowed the boat make sure there were no others around just in time to see him hump his back and dive, exposing an enormous tail. The thrill of seeing these magnificent creatures was short-lived as we were soon enveloped in fog for most of the morning. When the fog finally dissipated, we were treated to the stunning sight of mountains and waterfalls along Fraser Reach.

Arriving at Butedale, we were welcomed by an eagle soaring overhead and an otter catching a salmon for his evening meal. We spent the afternoon exploring the ruins of the old Butedale Cannery, a site rich in history. From 1911 until the 1970s Butedale was a bustling hub for the processing of various types of fish. Currently the area is in ruins but the new owners have plans to develop Butedale as a combined marina, high-end resort, and water-bottling plant. It will be interesting to see what develops in the next few years.

August 4, 2024, Sunday

Klewnuggit Inlet has been a true wonder of nature. As we anchored in this serene bay, we were greeted by the sight of countless jellyfish drifting gracefully in the water. It’s easy to see why many cruisers affectionately call this place “Jellyfish Bay.” The jellyfish, with their delicate, pulsating movements, created a mesmerizing underwater display that was both calming and captivating.

Our time here has also deepened our fascination with loons. While we had occasionally spotted a loon here and there, last night and today we were treated to the sight and sound of many loons. Their calls echoed through the inlet, creating a hauntingly beautiful soundtrack to our stay. We learned that loons have a repertoire of calls, including the wail, yodel, tremolo, and hoot, each serving different purposes such as long-distance communication, territory defense, and signaling distress. Their nocturnal choruses, described by writer John McPhee as “the laugh of the deeply insane,” added an eerie yet enchanting element to the night. Adding to the wonder of our surroundings, we observed a majestic eagle perched high in a tree, about 75 feet above the water. The eagle was sitting on a nest, a testament to the thriving wildlife in this pristine environment. The presence of these magnificent birds, along with the loons and jellyfish, underscored the untouched beauty and tranquility of Klewnuggit Inlet.

Jellyfish Video

Loon Video

S

August 3, 2024 – Saturday

Prince Rupert Harbor was bustling with activity as we departed. A couple of BC ferries were underway, along with a tow and barge, and a variety of small boats zipping around. It was a hazy day as we headed towards Grenville Channel, with calm waters and no wind to speak of.

As we entered Grenville Channel, the traffic began to thin out. Despite the channel’s reputation for being a busy waterway, we encountered very few boats on our way to Klewnuggit Inlet. The tranquility was a welcome change, allowing us to fully appreciate the stunning scenery around us.

As we traveled down the channel, the wind and waves gradually increased. By the time we arrived at Klewnuggit Inlet, the wind was blowing at 20-25 knots, and the waves had grown to 2-4 feet. The waves were coming from the stern, making the ride a bit bumpy but not too uncomfortable. We were relieved to turn into the calm waters of Klewnuggit Inlet, where we could finally relax and enjoy the peaceful surroundings.

We were amazed that the cruise ship was so close to our boat.

August 1, 2024 – Thursday

The first thing I noticed this morning was the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean, visible from the west side of Foggy Bay. I couldn’t help but wonder what adventures awaited us today.

Sunrise at Foggy Bay was a photographer’s dream, perfect for capturing reflection pictures. I particularly loved the shots of the boats anchored in the bay with us. We all planned to cross Dixon Passage today, and according to the latest information, today was the optimal time this week.

We were not disappointed. The wind remained below 12 knots all day, with gentle swells coming from our starboard side. For half of the journey, the tides gave us a pleasant push. The sunrise seemed to last forever, and we savored every stage of it—the sun peeking out from gray clouds, transitioning to white clouds, and finally to altocumulus clouds.

As we traveled along Holiday Passage, we observed the Green Island Lighthouse, prominently located on the isolated, barren, and windswept Green Island. Just 3 miles from the Alaskan border, it is the first notable landmark seen as marine traffic enters Canada. We also spotted sea lions sunning themselves on the rocky coastline.

The blue skies, white clouds, and sunshine were exactly what we had hoped for. Now, we are comfortably docked at Cow Bay Marina in Prince Rupert, BC, ready to explore the beauty and charm of this new destination.

This is the last place we saw whales in Alaska. Not many, not close, but a perfect goodbye gift.

Last picture in Alaska for this year.