Month: June 2024

Waterfall Day

Coghlan Anchorage at the south end of Grenville Channel and Douglas Channel

June 14, Friday

Our plan for today was to head west to Milbanke Sound and take Finlayson Channel which is part of the main route for B.C. Ferries. Weather predictions last night seemed favorable but today that changed, by the time we arrived at the sound the swells were on the rise. We took Reid Passage to Perceval Narrows, which we were lucky to catch at near low tide and proceeded though. We entered Mathieson Sound and took Oscar Passage to Finlayson Channel.

What a gorgeous day, we saw our first waterfalls of the trip. Two Pacific white-sided dolphins played along our bow for about 5 minutes. These dolphins are noted for being playful, highly social marine mammals, are avid bow-riders, and acrobatic jumpers. They are fascinating creatures, Rick just told me that they they use a sleep technique called unihemispheric sleep, which allows them to sleep while still breathing and being aware of their surroundings. That is a skill I would love to have on this trip.

Anchored in beautiful, secured, peaceful Bottleneck Inlet at Roderick Island, sharing the inlet with two other boats.

June 10-13

Owned by the Heiltsuk Nation, Shearwater Resort is an Indigenous wilderness resort in the heart of the Great Bear Rainforest.

Shearwater Park

This beautiful park is dedicated to Shearwater and New Bella Bella residents’ that serve in WW I, WW II, and the Korean wars.

New Bella Bella

While Rick was working on the boat, I took the Sea-Bus taxi to check-out New Bella Bella. The Heiltsuk Cultural Centre, which showcases their art and historical artifacts, was closed. I did shop at the Band Store (grocery store) and they told me the next closest grocery store was in Prince Rupert and that the fastest way to get from Bella Bella to Prince Rupert is by ferry, which takes eleven hours and twenty-three minutes. Students from Shearwaters take the Sea-Bus to the school in New Bella Bella.

Monday-June 10

After three beautiful days of solitude in Big Frypan Bay we left for Shearwater Resort and Marina, Denny Island.

Blue Herons on the Breakwater at Shearwater Marina

We are in Big Frypan Bay where we did a little water reflection photography. At high tide the water rises and trees appear to float, a dreamy illusion. As the tide recedes the rock-shores reveal their rugged beauty, each crevice, texture, and signature comes alive and appears as if they were petroglyphs.

Today we left Port McNeill for Big Frypan Bay at Penrose Island and we were not alone. There were five boats on our pier and four of us left before 5:00 in the morning. The sailing vessel Rita, not planning on going around Cape Caution, stayed snug as a bug. We had a good crossing, wave 1-4 feet with a couple of 5-6 foot waves, light wind, some boost from the current, and intermittent fog.

We passed a fishing boat leaving Big Frypan Bay as we entered. We left the current, winds, waves, and fog behind us to be alone in a calm bay with big beautiful blue skies.

This has been a busy morning. First, our first sunrise without clouds or fog. Second, the “go day” for the team from Dangerous Water Adventures, a Nordic Tug 54, and a Beneteau 47. Third, A seven-eagle beach battle for one poor fish.

Seven-eagle BeachBattle

In the afternoon we enjoy watching the activity on the breakwater.

July 6, Saturday

n 1840, the Hudson’s Bay Company constructed Fort Durham in Taku Bay. However, as the company’s policies shifted, Fort Durham (also known as Fort Taku) was eventually abandoned. During the early 1900s, a salmon cannery and Alaska’s first-ever cold storage plant were established in the harbor.

In 1981, Tiger Olson arrived in Taku Harbor to work at the cannery. When the cannery closed, Tiger became the sole inhabitant of this remote harbor. For a delightful and authentic Alaska story, I recommend reading: Taku Harbor’s Legendary Man and Myth

We love walking though a rainforest, in the sanctuary of a rainforest, stress dissipates, and a sense of connection to nature prevails, time seems to slow down. There’s no rush, no urgency—just the present moment.  

We had a fun day just exploring the harbor. We love the way they decorate their electric boxes, each one shows a little of the history of Port McNeill.

In place of the seaplane landing this time we have a view of the helicopter landing pad for Grizzly Helicopters Ltd. The pictures were taken from our boat.

I think we found our next adventure. Today we saw a big fancy jet ski pull into port with three decals: Adventure Guide, Seattle – Juneau, and Dangerous Water Adventures. The adventure guide was talking to the dock hands, and we could only guess what was coming next. Sure enough, nine more jet skis came around the breakwater. The group is on a 10-day, 1000-mile jet ski trip from Seattle, Washington to Ketchikan, Alaska. You might think that sitting on a jet ski for 10 days would be boring, but being out on the open ocean surrounded by nature can be an amazing experience. The group of 2 guides, 3 female and 5 male customers would disagree, they were happy, excited, and ready for a shower and some food. This trip can be a family adventure, as one couple brought their two adult sons with them. Check out their site and make sure to click on the video link:

https://dangerouswateradventures.com