“Nobody can go back and start a new beginning, but anyone can start today and make a new ending.” Maria Robinson
June 16, Sunday
Continued our journey up Grenville Channel to Prince Rupert. We will be staying in Cow Bay Marina for a few days as we enjoy the city and make plans for crossing Dixon Entrance to enter Alaska.
Cow Bay Marina Sunset
June 15, Saturday
Coghlan Anchorage is part of Wright Sound which is where Grenville Channel begins. The channel is about 45 nautical miles long and 0.2 nautical miles wide at its narrowest point, ending at Prince Rupert. Since it is a part of the Inside Passage shipping route you are likely to see all types of vessels.
Anchored in Klewnuggit Inlet at the East Inner Basin. Sharing the Space with Spirit Bear.
Waterfall Day
Coghlan Anchorage at the south end of Grenville Channel and Douglas Channel
June 14, Friday
Our plan for today was to head west to Milbanke Sound and take Finlayson Channel which is part of the main route for B.C. Ferries. Weather predictions last night seemed favorable but today that changed, by the time we arrived at the sound the swells were on the rise. We took Reid Passage to Perceval Narrows, which we were lucky to catch at near low tide and proceeded though. We entered Mathieson Sound and took Oscar Passage to Finlayson Channel.
What a gorgeous day, we saw our first waterfalls of the trip. Two Pacific white-sided dolphins played along our bow for about 5 minutes. These dolphins are noted for being playful, highly social marine mammals, are avid bow-riders, and acrobatic jumpers. They are fascinating creatures, Rick just told me that they they use a sleep technique called unihemispheric sleep, which allows them to sleep while still breathing and being aware of their surroundings. That is a skill I would love to have on this trip.
Anchored in beautiful, secured, peaceful Bottleneck Inlet at Roderick Island, sharing the inlet with two other boats.
June 10-13
Owned by the Heiltsuk Nation, Shearwater Resort is an Indigenous wilderness resort in the heart of the Great Bear Rainforest.
Shearwater Park
This beautiful park is dedicated to Shearwater and New Bella Bella residents’ that serve in WW I, WW II, and the Korean wars.
While Rick was working on the boat, I took the Sea-Bus taxi to check-out New Bella Bella. The Heiltsuk Cultural Centre, which showcases their art and historical artifacts, was closed. I did shop at the Band Store (grocery store) and they told me the next closest grocery store was in Prince Rupert and that the fastest way to get from Bella Bella to Prince Rupert is by ferry, which takes eleven hours and twenty-three minutes. Students from Shearwaters take the Sea-Bus to the school in New Bella Bella.
Monday-June 10
After three beautiful days of solitude in Big Frypan Bay we left for Shearwater Resort and Marina, Denny Island.
Blue Herons on the Breakwater at Shearwater Marina
We are in Big Frypan Bay where we did a little water reflection photography. At high tide the water rises and trees appear to float, a dreamy illusion. As the tide recedes the rock-shores reveal their rugged beauty, each crevice, texture, and signature comes alive and appears as if they were petroglyphs.
Today we left Port McNeill for Big Frypan Bay at Penrose Island and we were not alone. There were five boats on our pier and four of us left before 5:00 in the morning. The sailing vessel Rita, not planning on going around Cape Caution, stayed snug as a bug. We had a good crossing, wave 1-4 feet with a couple of 5-6 foot waves, light wind, some boost from the current, and intermittent fog.
We passed a fishing boat leaving Big Frypan Bay as we entered. We left the current, winds, waves, and fog behind us to be alone in a calm bay with big beautiful blue skies.
This has been a busy morning. First, our first sunrise without clouds or fog. Second, the “go day” for the team from Dangerous Water Adventures, a Nordic Tug 54, and a Beneteau 47. Third, A seven-eagle beach battle for one poor fish.
Seven-eagle BeachBattle
In the afternoon we enjoy watching the activity on the breakwater.
July 6, Saturday
n 1840, the Hudson’s Bay Company constructed Fort Durham in Taku Bay. However, as the company’s policies shifted, Fort Durham (also known as Fort Taku) was eventually abandoned. During the early 1900s, a salmon cannery and Alaska’s first-ever cold storage plant were established in the harbor.
In 1981, Tiger Olson arrived in Taku Harbor to work at the cannery. When the cannery closed, Tiger became the sole inhabitant of this remote harbor. For a delightful and authentic Alaska story, I recommend reading: Taku Harbor’s Legendary Man and Myth
We love walking though a rainforest, in the sanctuary of a rainforest, stress dissipates, and a sense of connection to nature prevails, time seems to slow down. There’s no rush, no urgency—just the present moment.
