Category: Inside Passage

August 20, 1924 – Tuesday

Sullivan Bay, Shawl Bay, and Echo Bay are captivating and remote communities, intricately connected to the natural environment. Each of these unique locales features structures built on floating logs or platforms, creating a harmonious blend of human habitation and the surrounding waters. From the serene beauty of Sullivan Bay to the charming tranquility of Shawl Bay and the picturesque allure of Echo Bay, these communities offer a glimpse into a lifestyle deeply intertwined with nature. Enjoy our pictures as we journey from Sullivan to Shawl Bay to Echo, showcasing the stunning landscapes and unique living arrangements that define these remarkable places.

August 19, 2024 – Monday

In the late 1970s and early 1980s, Rick’s parents embarked on memorable cruises through Southeast Alaska and Canada, joining their close friends Marilyn and Chuck on S/V Pollux, a 47-foot sailboat. During their adventures, the quartet forged a lasting friendship with the owners of Sullivan Bay. Chuck and Dick even lent a hand in installing several docks and wiring some of the houses, leaving their mark on the community. The following pictures aim to showcase the transformations that have occurred over the years, while also capturing the timeless elements that remain unchanged, evoking a sense of nostalgia and connection to the past.

Images from Sullivan Bay Marina

A hole in one will earn you a free night on the dock.

All depends on the tide.

August 18, 2024

After successfully crossing Cape Caution, we relished three tranquil nights at Allison Harbor, soaking in the serene solitude and the delightful company of birds. Today, our journey led us to the enchanting Sullivan Bay Marina, a distinctive floating village surrounded by towering mountains, long fjords, and deep channels. This picturesque marina, nestled in the Broughton Archipelago off the North Coast of Vancouver Island, marked our first stop in this stunning region.

August 14-15, 2024 – Wednesday & Thursday

Wednesday morning, we left Pruth Bay in preparation of crossing Cape Caution. The day welcomed us with a stunning display of blue seas and clear skies. The water was serene, with barely a whisper of wind, and for the first time since Prince Rupert, the fog had lifted. The whales, however, continued to grace us with their majestic presence, adding a touch of magic to our journey.

As the sun dipped below the horizon, we found ourselves in the picturesque Frypan Bay, surrounded by five other boats. While they remained in the embrace of their dreams, we rose at the crack of dawn, eager to check the conditions for our crossing. At the first light of day, we left the bay and embarked on a smooth crossing. The swells, ranging from 2 to 6 feet, rolled gently from behind us, and there were no wind waves to disturb our passage. The rhythmic motion of the boat brought back fond memories of our sailing days.

Throughout our passage, we kept a keen eye out for sea life. We were delighted by the sight of numerous birds, a playful sea otter, and a majestic stellar sea lion. We spent the entire day scanning the horizon for whales, and just as we were about to give up hope, a humpback whale graced us with its presence as we neared Allison Harbor.

Tonight, we find ourselves snug in Allison Harbor, reflecting on the adventures of the past two days and eagerly anticipating the journey ahead.

August 13, 2024 – Tuesday

The humpback whales did not disappoint today. During our nine hours of traveling, we were fortunate to witness 3 to 5 whales on six different occasions. Each sighting was a thrilling reminder of the majestic beauty of these creatures. Their graceful movements and powerful breaches left us in awe, making the journey even more memorable.

As we passed by Namu Harbour, we gathered some fascinating information about Namu the whale. In June 1965, fisherman William Lechkobit accidentally caught a 22-foot orca in his salmon net near Namu, BC. The net had become entangled in a reef, so Lechkobit cut it loose and found the orca and a calf in the morning. The bull orca slipped out of the net, but the calf stayed, so the bull returned. The calf was gone two days later, but the bull remained. Lechkobit sold the orca, named Namu after the village, to Ted Griffin, the owner of the Seattle Marine Aquarium, for $8,000. Named after his capture location near Namu, BC, he quickly became a beloved figure, captivating audiences with his intelligence and playful behavior. Namu’s presence raised awareness about orcas and their behavior, leading to increased interest in marine biology and conservation. His legacy highlights the complex relationship between humans and marine life, emphasizing both fascination and ethical considerations surrounding the captivity of wild animals.

Tonight, we find ourselves at Pruth Bay, part of the Hakai Luxvbalis Conservancy Area, the largest provincial marine protected area on the coast of BC. This pristine location is also home to the Hakai Beach Institute, a private research and conference center. The serene beauty of Pruth Bay provides a perfect backdrop for reflection and relaxation after a day filled with excitement.

As we settle in for the evening, it’s time to decide on a good day for our southward crossing of Cape Caution. That day could be as early as Thursday. However, because forecasts are ever-changing, we will not know for sure until Thursday morning. The anticipation of the journey ahead adds to the sense of adventure, reminding us of the ever-changing nature of our travels.

August 12, 2024 – Monday

We left Shearwater this morning, setting our course for the charming and remote Ocean Falls. Along the way, we were delighted to spot M/V Carried Away fishing. This lovely couple had gifted us two Coho Salmon while we were in Shearwater, and it was heartwarming to see them again, enjoying their time on the water.

Shortly after, the couple on M/V Absolute, who had left Shearwater just before us, called us on the radio. They excitedly informed us that they had spotted whales just ahead. We lifted our binoculars and began our search. Within five minutes, we were treated to the magnificent sight of whales. The boating community is truly wonderful; boaters are always willing to share fish, information, assistance, or even strange and hilarious stories.

It was exhilarating to be back on the water today. The most exciting part was that the fog was hanging lazily around the tops of the mountains, and we had no problems seeing the other vessels. Although it was a little sad not to be able to see the mountain peaks, they were still beautiful. That’s the thing about the Inside Passage—whatever the weather, it just enhances the beauty of its surroundings. You might think you would get weary of the same type of scenery every day, but Mother Nature has a way of mixing it up so that you stay alert, looking towards the next mountain, bird, waterfall, seal, whale, etc.

Our next whale adventure came as we approached Cousins Inlet, which leads us to Ocean Falls. We had our second humpback whale sighting of the day, with more blowing, breaching, and showing of their beautiful tails. It was a thrilling experience that added to the magic of our journey.

Once a bustling mill town, Ocean Falls has a rich history that dates back to the early 20th century. The remnants of the old pulp and paper mill, along with the historic buildings, provide a glimpse into its industrious past. In its heyday the town support about 3,500 people but today only 30-50 people live there year round.

Since this is an Olympic year, I think should mention the fact that from 1948-1972 the Ocean Falls Swim Club placed at least one swimmer on every Canadian Olympic, Commonwealth, or Pan American Games team and in many cases they were winners. BC Hall of Fame

Ocean Falls is also known for its abundant rainfall, earning it the nickname “Rain People.” This constant precipitation contributes to the lush, green landscape that defines the region. The community’s hydroelectric dam on Link Lake, one of the oldest in the province, harnesses the power of the abundant water resources to generate electricity for Ocean Falls, Martin Valley, Shearwater and Bella Bella.

It is difficult to find good sailing wind in this area.

Once the second largest hotel in BC

Ocean Falls looking down Cousins Inlet

August 9, Friday

This morning was completely socked in with fog, creating an almost surreal atmosphere. There were four boats anchored in Rescue Cove last night, and when we woke at 6:00 am, we could barely make out their anchor lights through the dense mist. So much for our plan to leave at seven.

As the fog began to lift, one by one, we started leaving the clear bay, only to find that Mathieson Channel was still shrouded in fog. For the next four hours, our visibility was severely limited, never extending beyond ¾ mile and sometimes shrinking to just ¼ mile. The last boat to leave the bay didn’t have AIS, so they followed us past Perceval Narrows.

We were fortunate that by the time we reached Perceval Narrows, we had a mile of visibility, which allowed us to navigate through the rocky passage safely. However, shortly after leaving the narrows, the fog closed in on us once again. It stayed with us for another hour before finally dissipating.

When the fog lifted, we were greeted by the welcome sight of blue skies. It was such a relief to see the sun shining again, and it made the rest of our journey much more enjoyable. The change in weather lifted our spirits, and we felt a renewed sense of adventure as we continued on our way. By the time we reached Shearwater Marina on Denny Island, we were tired but happy to be safely moored. We plan to stay here until Monday and will send another blog entry on Tuesday.

August 8, 2024 – Thursday

Today was a very quiet day, marked by serene and tranquil moments. We left Windy Bay and entered the fog-covered Sheep Passage, where the mist added an air of mystery to our journey. The silence was only broken by the gentle lapping of water against the boat, creating a peaceful ambiance.

Our adventure took us to Mathieson Narrows, marking the beginning of our introduction to the Fiordland Conservancy. The scenery here was nothing short of breathtaking, with lush forests, glacial fjords, and towering waterfalls. The steep granite cliffs stood majestically, providing a dramatic backdrop to the variety of birds that filled the air with their songs. We were thrilled to spot two humpback whales, their majestic presence adding to the magic of the day.

One of the highlights of our journey was visiting Kynoch Waterfall, just one of the many tall waterfalls that grace Fiordland. The sight of the cascading water was mesmerizing, and we couldn’t help but marvel at the natural beauty surrounding us. As we traveled down Mathieson Passage, we got a small taste of this remote and pristine area, feeling a deep connection to the untouched wilderness.

Throughout the day, we saw only one other vessel, emphasizing the solitude and remoteness of our location. Our journey eventually led us to Rescue Bay, where we found a calm anchorage. The day was filled with moments of awe and wonder, leaving us with a profound appreciation for the natural world and the serene beauty of Fiordland Conservancy.

Kynoch Falls Video

August 7, 2024 – Wednesday

Today was another foggy day, though not as dense as yesterday, making it less stressful to navigate. Over the past several days we had seen very few boats on the water. However, today was different. It seemed to be a special day for Canadian fishers, as we had plenty of company on the water, with most of them engaged in fishing. The fishing boats varied in size, from small sport fishing vessels to large commercial fishing boats.

While yesterday’s highlight was the abundance of wildlife, today we were mesmerized by the stunning waterfalls. We were fortunate to see whales again, mostly in the distance, which wasn’t ideal for photography but perfect for observation. As we entered Hiekish Narrows, our speed dropped from 6 to 3 knots due to the strong current. Rick described the narrows as akin to going upstream in a fast-flowing river, where the currents constantly tried to push us against the rocks.

A memorable part of the day was a humpback whale that seemed to guide us through Hiekish Narrows. We first spotted the whale as we approached the entry, swimming from the east side to the west directly in front of us. Throughout our passage through the narrows, the whale would surface, blow several times, and then dive back down, leading us all the way to the end. As we exited, it gave us a final show with three more blows and a tail flip before disappearing below.

After leaving the narrows, we passed a fish farm and reminisced about how this area was the first place we had seen a whale on our journey north. From the narrows, we headed east up Sheep Passage to Windy Bay, where we found calm anchorage and were serenaded by various bird sounds. We were particularly entertained by a little gull that claimed a small piece of wood as its boat for the evening. Despite others trying to take the log, the gull was determined to keep it. Eventually, the tide carried the gull behind our boat and out of the bay, about a mile away.

The Little Gull, the world’s smallest gull, has a graceful flight style similar to a tern, but with rounded wingtips. They are fascinating creatures known for their agility and social nature. These birds often form large flocks, relying on group dynamics for protection and efficient foraging. Their diet consists mainly of insects, small fish, and crustaceans, which they skillfully catch with their nimble movements. Unlike their larger counterparts, little gulls are more adaptable to various environments, including inland areas. They prefer concealed nesting sites within large colonies, providing safety in numbers. Despite their size, these seagulls exhibit remarkable adaptability and resourcefulness, making them a captivating creature to watch. We have loved watching them interact with each other.

Butedale Waterfall Video

August 6, 2024 – Tuesday

Today has been a fascinating day, filled with the wonders of wildlife. As we left the anchorage, we were greeted by harbor seals sunning themselves on the rocks of a navigation marker. A young buck deer swam gracefully across the bay, and a huge steller sea lion swam by the starboard side of Paradigm Lost, adding to the morning’s excitement.

Entering Wright Channel, we spotted a pod of whales about a mile off. All of a sudden, we were startled by a huge humpback surfacing not more than 3 boat links off of our port bow! We slowed the boat make sure there were no others around just in time to see him hump his back and dive, exposing an enormous tail. The thrill of seeing these magnificent creatures was short-lived as we were soon enveloped in fog for most of the morning. When the fog finally dissipated, we were treated to the stunning sight of mountains and waterfalls along Fraser Reach.

Arriving at Butedale, we were welcomed by an eagle soaring overhead and an otter catching a salmon for his evening meal. We spent the afternoon exploring the ruins of the old Butedale Cannery, a site rich in history. From 1911 until the 1970s Butedale was a bustling hub for the processing of various types of fish. Currently the area is in ruins but the new owners have plans to develop Butedale as a combined marina, high-end resort, and water-bottling plant. It will be interesting to see what develops in the next few years.